What Is Upcycling? Introducing the Appeal of Apparel Textiles Made with Sustainable Materials That Are Drawing Attention!

Hello! I’m Kimura from the ApparelX Sustainability Team. 

In recent years, we’ve been seeing more and more terms like “sustainable,” “recycle,” and “circular fashion” in the apparel industry.

Among them, the concept we want to focus on this time is “upcycling.”

Upcycling adds new value to items that are no longer needed or materials that would otherwise be discarded, turning them into different products or materials.

In fashion as well, there is growing use of cutting scraps, leftover rolls generated during garment production, and discarded food/materials to create new products. 

This time, we’ll introduce what upcycling means in apparel materials, why it is attracting attention, and how materials are transformed into new ones through the process.

What is upcycling in the apparel industry? 

In the first place, “upcycling” means not simply throwing away items that are no longer needed or were scheduled to be discarded, but adding new value and transforming them into different products or materials.

In apparel, typical examples of upcycling include turning denim pants that were meant to be discarded into bags, or using leftover rolls for accessories or other garments.

In the apparel industry, a wide variety of materials are used, such as cutting scraps generated during production, leather and synthetic leather scheduled for disposal, and by-products from other industries such as food and agriculture.

Here, it is important to note the difference between “upcycling” and “recycling.”

Recycling means collecting and processing unwanted items and using them again as raw materials.

Upcycling, on the other hand, is the idea of adding new ideas, designs, or functions to create something with a different value from the original.

That’s why, in the apparel industry, there are various circular approaches such as “upcycling,” “recycling,” and “T2T (Textile to Textile).” 

ApparelX also introduces T2T materials that reuse textile waste generated in garment production and production processes as fiber again. 

Related blog here ▼

・What is textile-to-textile? ~Introducing T2T (Textile to Textile), circular recycling using textile waste, and recommended sustainable fabrics~

Why is upcycling attracting attention?

The reason upcycling is drawing attention is the long-standing problems in the apparel industry, such as mass production, mass consumption, and mass disposal.

During the process of making clothes, various waste materials are generated, such as fabrics that do not become products, cutting scraps, and leftover rolls.

There are also end-of-season inventory items and garments that are discarded even though they are still usable.

By giving new value to these “still usable” items or things that can be used in another form, there is potential to reduce waste and make effective use of resources. As a result, sustainable thinking such as remaking, recycling, T2T, and upcycling is becoming increasingly important in the apparel industry.

In addition, upcycled materials are appealing not only because they are environmentally conscious, but also because the material itself has a story.

For example, production backgrounds such as “this product was made by reusing fiber waste generated in the production process” or “this fabric/accessory is made from materials that would otherwise have been discarded” can also be used for brand product planning and sales promotions.

In recent years, as interest in sustainability has grown, it has become increasingly important to choose products while considering the background of the material itself.

How are upcycled materials created? 

How are materials that were originally meant to be discarded transformed into new fabrics and supplies?

Manufacturing methods vary greatly depending on the material, but here we will briefly introduce three representative patterns. 

 1. In the case of sustainable leather

For leather products and leather materials, there are methods of processing discarded leather or plant-based materials into new leather-like materials. 

Example: finely process and crush discarded materials → combine with resin, etc. to form sheets → use as new leather material

In recent years, vegan leather made from plant-based raw materials such as apples, cactus, and grapes has also appeared, in addition to waste materials.

These materials are increasingly being used in bags, shoes, garments, and more as an alternative to conventional animal leather. 

 2. When blended into textile fibers

A relatively easy-to-imagine method for apparel fabrics is to use leftover rolls and by-products as fiber raw materials and blend them with other fibers. 

 In rough terms, the flow is as follows: 

Example: waste materials / textile waste → collection / sorting → processing such as crushing and fiber opening → recycled fiber / recycled raw material → blended with other fibers to make yarn → manufactured as fabric

F EARTH® sold by ApparelX is also a material made by blending recycled cotton made from collected and crushed textile waste with organic cotton. 

Also, UNITO® is an initiative that collects textile waste such as raw fabrics and thread trimmings generated in the production process, regenerates it into new yarn, and turns it into fabric as part of T2T (textile-to-textile).

3. When used for “compounding” in buttons and other items

Upcycling is not limited to fabrics.

For clothing accessories such as buttons, there are methods of mixing discarded materials and by-products into resin and molding them.

Example: waste materials / by-products → finely processed → mixed with resin, etc. → heated and molded → clothing accessories such as buttons 

The interesting thing about this method is that the color, shape, and texture of the original material become part of the design’s individuality.

As a result, upcycled materials can be used not only as environmentally conscious materials, but also as design materials with an expression not found in ordinary materials.

Advantages and disadvantages

Upcycled materials are attractive from an environmental perspective, but they are not suitable for every use.

When adopting a material, it is necessary to check strength, durability, washability, processability, and more, just as you would with normal fabrics. 

Advantages

1. Waste and unused resources can be effectively utilized

Materials that would otherwise be discarded can be used as raw materials for new products and fabrics.

2. The use of new resources may be reduced

By utilizing existing materials, it becomes possible to reduce the use of virgin raw materials.

3. Materials can be given a story

The background itself — what it was made from and how it was transformed — becomes part of the product’s appeal.

4. You can enjoy a unique texture and appearance

By combining regenerated fibers and different materials, uneven textures and expressions not found in ordinary materials may be created.

Disadvantages / points to note 

On the other hand, there are also points to note that are unique to upcycled materials.

1. Care is needed regarding strength and durability

Depending on the recycled and processed material, strength and other properties may differ from materials made with virgin raw materials. Especially for items that bear load, testing and confirmation according to the intended use are important.

2. The texture and color may vary

Depending on the condition of the collected raw materials and the lot, the color and fiber condition may not be uniform.

That natural individual variation is also part of the appeal, but it requires attention for products where uniformity is important.

3. The items that can be used may be limited

Depending on the material, the products in which it can be used may be limited due to strength, washability, safety, and other reasons.

In particular, for products that emphasize safety and quality standards, such as baby and kids items, it is necessary to carefully confirm whether the material can be adopted.

Just because a material is sustainable does not mean it can be used for any product.

At the product planning stage, it is important to check test data and quality information suitable for the intended use.

Recommended products featured on ApparelX

Here are some sustainable fabrics and accessories that have been upcycled and given a new form.

Summary