Catch Stitch

Definition and Overview

Catch stitch is a sewing method in which the stitches cross diagonally in a continuous line. Because it can secure fabric edges with little visibility on the front side, it is used for hemming, finishing seam allowances, and holding interfacings in place. In English, it is called catch stitch or herringbone stitch.

The appearance of the stitches varies depending on the thickness of the textile, thread color, stitch spacing, and sewing depth. Reducing the amount of outer fabric picked up helps minimize visible marks on the surface, but if the stitches are too shallow, holding power becomes insufficient, so adjustment according to the application is necessary.

Positioning in Product Making

Catch stitch is different from lockstitch sewing, which joins each part together after cutting, and is mainly performed as a finishing step to settle seam allowances and folded edges. It is an auxiliary sewing specification suitable for areas where you want to secure the fabric without making the stitching strongly visible from the front.

It is used for hemming jackets, coats, and slacks, as well as finishing the edges of thin fabrics and fashion accessories. Hand sewing makes it easier to achieve a soft finish, and in mass production, a dedicated herringbone machine may be chosen depending on the specification.

Procedure and Practical Points

In the specification sheet, clearly state the area where catch stitch is to be used, the direction in which the seam allowance is turned, thread color, and how visible the stitching may be on the front side. Also specify whether the outer fabric, lining, or interfacing is to be picked up, and if necessary, share the stitch size and density with a sewing sample.

Before sewing, perform a trial stitch using the actual textile and thread. On thin fabrics, watch for thread puckering and stitch show-through on the surface; on thick fabrics, watch for poor needle penetration and tight thread tension. For stretch materials, it is important not to tighten the thread too much and to avoid restricting the stretch of the textile.

• Check the amount of outer fabric picked up and how much the stitches show on the surface.
• Keep the stitch position from the edge consistent to prevent waviness.
• Check for thread breakage, skipped stitches, and thread splitting.
• For paired areas such as left and right hems, match the appearance and finished dimensions.

Ordering and Quality Notes

When placing an order with a factory, do not write only “catch stitch”; specify whether it is hand sewing or machine sewing, the sewing range, finishing position, thread color and type, and an approved sample. Even with the same name, the shape and density of the stitches may be handled differently depending on the factory or item.

During inspection, check whether the stitches on the front side are too noticeable, whether the thread is loose and the edge is lifting, and whether the stitching endpoint has come undone. Also evaluate seam allowance lifting, puckering, and fabric pulling with wear and washing in mind.

Differences from Similar Terms

Blind hemming is a general term used for sewing methods that secure folded hems and the like so they are not easily visible from the front side. Catch stitch is one of the representative stitch patterns used for that purpose, and its crossed stitching is its defining feature. Lockstitch is a straight sewing method for joining fabrics, and its application is different.

Herringbone is also used as the name of a weave structure or pattern, but catch stitch is a sewing technique. In addition, houndstooth is the name of a check pattern and is unrelated to catch stitch. Because the names are similar, listing both the area and the sewing method in the specification sheet helps prevent misunderstandings.

Frequently Asked Questions