Fabric Spreading

Definition and position in the process

Fabric spreading is the cutting preparation process of drawing textile from a roll and laying it out in layers on a cutting table. In general, it is performed after pattern making, grading, and marking, and before cutting. The layered fabric is called the spread.

Because cutting is done on the spread all at once, the accuracy of spreading affects each garment dimension, the appearance of the pattern, and the alignment of notches during sewing. It is not simply the task of layering textile; it is a process that supports cutting quality and fabric yield.

Procedure and practical points

Before work begins, check the fabric width, length per roll, color and lot, and the location of fabric defects. Then spread the fabric onto the cutting table according to the material allowance required for marking, and align each layer using the end and selvedge as references.

It is important to unify the face and back, grain, nap, and pattern direction of the fabric according to the specifications. For stripes and checks, confirm in advance whether pattern matching is required, and if necessary choose unidirectional spreading or one-piece spreading.

• Do not pull the fabric more than necessary; spread it in its natural state.
• Smooth out wrinkles, slack, twists, and waviness in the selvedge.
• Manage the length of each layer and the number of layers, and check them against the cutting instructions.
• Record the location of defects such as damage, stains, and uneven color so they can be avoided during cutting.

Points to note depending on fabric properties

For knitted fabrics and stretch fabric, spreading while the fabric is under tension may cause it to shrink after cutting, changing the garment dimensions. Whether to allow time for the fabric to rest and stabilize is decided based on the fabric properties and factory standards.

For pile fabrics, fuzzy fabric, velvet, and similar materials, the nap affects the product's color tone and the way gloss appears. Unidirectional spreading, in which the nap direction is aligned, is often required, and this also affects material allowance and cutting efficiency.

For lightweight fabrics, slippery fabrics, and fabrics prone to distortion, attention is needed to prevent shifting between layers. If necessary, adjust the spreading method or cutting method, and confirm the garment accuracy with a test cut.

Points to note for ordering and quality control

The ordering side should confirm the fabric width, required material allowance, length per roll, and lot, and share with the factory the information needed for the cutting plan. Directional patterns, nap, pattern matching, face and back, and the allowable range of defects should be clearly stated in the specifications or cutting instructions.

To prevent shortages of fabric, take into account not only the material allowance on the marker, but also end losses, defect avoidance, pattern matching, and shrinkage rate. Especially for additional production, also consider color differences and texture differences due to lot variation, and confirm early whether the same lot can be secured.

Differences from similar terms

Marking is the task of efficiently arranging patterns within the fabric width and deciding the layout needed for cutting. Fabric spreading is the task of layering the fabric so that it can be cut according to that marking, and the role is different.

Grain correction is a pre-process that aligns distortion and the grain of the fabric to improve cutting accuracy. It may be performed before fabric spreading, but fabric spreading refers to the process of laying out the fabric on the cutting table itself. Cutting is the process of separating the spread fabric into pattern shapes.

Frequently asked questions

Is it necessary to let the fabric rest during spreading?

The need depends on the type of fabric, processing, and storage condition. In particular, knitted fabrics and stretch fabric can be unstable in size due to being wound or affected by tension. Perform a test cut in advance and make the decision according to the factory standards and the characteristics of the fabric.

What is unidirectional spreading?

It is a method of spreading the fabric so that the face, pattern, and nap direction are all aligned in the same direction across all layers. It is used for fuzzy fabric, directional prints, and fabrics whose gloss appearance changes easily. It may require more material allowance than a back-and-forth spreading method.

How are fabric defects handled during spreading?

Understand the location of defects confirmed during inspection and record and mark them during spreading as well. The basic rule is to adjust the marking and layout so they do not enter the garment during cutting. It is important to decide in advance how defects will be handled, the allowable range, and the method of replenishment after cutting.