Pattern

Definition and Overview

A pattern is the master template used to cut the various parts that make up a garment, such as the body, sleeves, collar, and pockets. It specifies not only finished dimensions but also seam allowances, grainline, notches, darts, seam lines, and other details so the garment takes the intended shape after sewing.

In practice, the term pattern may refer not only to a paper pattern printed out on paper, but also to data created in CAD. The work of creating and revising patterns is called pattern making, and the person in charge is called a pattern maker.

Position in Product Development

In general, a pattern is created based on the design, size, material, trims, and specifications decided during planning, then finalized for mass production after prototypes and checks. The finalized pattern becomes the standard that connects information through marking, spreading, cutting, and sewing.

Patterns are used together with the specification sheet. While the specification sheet is a document that conveys the sewing method, trims to be used, dimensions, and inspection points, the pattern specifically shows the shape of the cut parts and the assembly positions.

How It Is Created and Verified

First, the design drawing, finished measurements, material characteristics, and wearing conditions are checked, and a basic block is developed into each part. After that, the silhouette, ease, relationships between parts, and ease of sewing are checked with a toile or prototype, and revisions are made as needed.

In mass production, grading, which is the expansion by size, is also important. Even if only the base size is adjusted, the balance may break in other sizes. In addition to the dimensional differences for each size, the positions of the collar, armhole, pockets, and similar parts are also checked.

• Organize the required parts by material, such as outer fabric, lining, and interlining.
• Clearly specify grainline, print direction, nap direction, and left-right symmetry handling.
• Add notches to seams and use them to confirm length and position.
• Match the seam allowance width, finishing method, and fold lines with the specification sheet.

Ordering and Quality Points

When placing an order with a sewing factory, share a pattern, specification sheet, size chart, and trim instructions that clearly indicate the latest version. If revision history or version number is unclear, there is a risk that cutting will be done using an old version, so manage the change points and when they apply.

Fabric shrinkage, stretch, thickness, pattern, and nap affect pattern accuracy and cutting efficiency. Before mass production, make a sample using the actual fabric, check dimensional changes after washing and pressing, pattern matching, and sewing misalignment, and adjust the pattern or specifications if necessary.

Differences from Similar Terms

Shaping is widely used as the Japanese term for pattern. On the other hand, pattern may also be used to mean design information that includes not only a paper template but also CAD data and instructions needed for mass production.

Marking is the work of arranging patterns efficiently according to fabric width and required quantity, or the layout diagram itself. Cutting is the process of cutting the fabric according to that layout, and is distinct from creating the pattern itself.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which should be checked first, the pattern or the specification sheet?

Check both so they are consistent with each other. The pattern shows the standards for cutting and sewing, such as part shape, seam allowances, and notches, while the specification sheet supplements sewing methods, trims, and finishing. If the descriptions differ, do not proceed on your own judgment; confirm with planning or the pattern maker and make the instructions consistent.

What should be checked in the pattern before mass production?

Check the seam lengths of each part, notch positions, seam allowances, grainline, left-right distinction, and size grading. In addition, it is important to make a sample with the same fabric, interlining, and trims as mass production, and verify shrinkage, stretch, sewing defects caused by thickness, and dimensional changes after washing and pressing.

What should be noted after revising a pattern?

Check not only the revised part but also the connected parts, seam lengths, notches, and the impact on grading. After the change, update the version number and date, and distribute the same latest version to the factory, cutting staff, and specification sheet administrator. It is also necessary to recall or stop using the old version.