Pile

Definition and Overview

Pile is a textile in which threads are formed into loops from the ground structure (the base part of the textile), or the loops are cut to raise the nap. It is a term for a structure and surface texture used in both woven and knit fabrics, and does not refer to a specific fiber name.

A pile with the loops left intact is called loop pile, and one with the loops cut is called cut pile. In woven fabrics, there is a method of creating pile with separate warp threads, while in knit fabrics, loops are formed through the stitches.

• Loop pile: a structure in which the loops remain on the surface, making it easy to take advantage of absorbency like towel fabric.
• Cut pile: a surface with a nap that is smooth and easy to achieve a lustrous look.

Features

Because it tends to hold air on the surface, it generally offers fullness, softness, and warmth. Thickness, resilience, absorbency, and appearance vary greatly depending on loop size and density, thread thickness, material, and the ground structure.

Cut pile may appear different in color and sheen depending on the direction of the nap. Loop pile may snag and pull threads, so it is important to check the pile density and strength according to the intended use.

Main Applications

Loop pile, which takes advantage of absorbency, is used for towel fabric, bathrobes, baby products, and loungewear. Knit pile is also used for cut-and-sew knits, sweats, and some sports applications.

Cut pile, which makes use of the nap and sheen, is used for dresses, jackets, highly decorative costumes, and interior applications. Depending on the material and industry weight, there are options ranging from light spring/summer types to warmer autumn/winter types.

How to Choose and Handling Notes

Choose according to the application by checking whether it is loop or cut pile, the pile length, density, stability of the ground structure, and blended materials. For absorbent uses, check the standing quality of the loops and absorbency; for apparel, it is easier to choose by checking thickness, stretch, nap, and how the seams look after sewing.

Before cutting, align the nap direction and grain. With cut pile, if the nap runs in opposite directions on different hardware or parts, it may look like a difference in color, so it is basic practice to place everything in the same direction. During sewing, take care not to sew the pile into the seam, and adjust the nap allowance as needed.

Follow the care instructions for the material. Loop pile is prone to snagging on hook and loop fasteners, decorative hardware, and rough surfaces, so using a laundry net and separating it from other garments is effective. The degree of pile loss, lint shedding, and shrinkage varies depending on the material and finishing, so washing tests should be conducted before mass production.

Differences from Similar Terms

Velvet generally refers to a woven fabric with a short, dense cut pile. Pile is a broader general term for fabric structures with loops or nap on the surface, including velvet.

Corduroy is also a woven fabric with ribbed cut pile and can be considered a type of pile. On the other hand, brushing is a finishing process that raises fibers from the surface of an existing textile to create nap, and differs from pile, in which threads are built into the structure as loops or pile.

FAQ

Is pile fabric the same as towel fabric?

Towel fabric is a representative pile fabric with loop pile on the surface. However, pile also includes fabrics with cut nap and fabrics made in different ways, such as woven or knit fabrics. Therefore, not all pile fabrics are towel fabric.

What should I be careful about when cutting and sewing pile fabric?

If the nap direction of cut pile is not unified across all hardware, the fabric may look different in color because of light reflection. Loop pile can snag easily at cut edges or during sewing, so handle it carefully and check that the nap is not caught in the seams.