Under Collar Felt

Definition and Overview

Under collar felt is an interlining placed on the underside of the collar, especially on the hidden inside of the upper collar. By using it along the outer edge of the collar, it gives the collar appropriate thickness, resilience, and cohesion that are difficult to achieve with the textile alone, and shapes the collar outline. In English, it is called under collar felt.

It is a supporting material that enhances the look of the collar in line with the texture and tailoring of the outer fabric, and after completion it should not stand out from the outside. However, because it affects the collar roll, how it follows the neck, and the fullness at the edge, it has a major impact on the appearance of tailored garments.

Placement and Role

The main application areas are the upper collars of jackets, suits, and coats. By layering and stitching it to the underside of the upper collar, it helps prevent the collar points from sagging or rippling and makes it easier to maintain the collar curve. It also plays a role in making the collar roll continuing from the lapel look natural.

It is important not only to firmly fix the collar shape, but also to retain softness that blends with the neck area. For that reason, it is cut slightly smaller than the outer fabric, or the thickness at the seam allowances is adjusted, so that fading or ridges do not appear on the outside.

Materials and Types

Under collar felt includes felt-like materials made mainly from wool and products blended with other fibers. Unlike woven interlinings, it is generally less likely to fray at the cut edges and is easier to follow curves. Thickness, density, firmness, and color vary by product.

Thin and supple types are easy to match with lightweight garments and thin outer fabrics, while firmer types are used for the collars of heavy jackets and coats. When the outer fabric is thin or light-colored, check whether the thickness and color of the under collar felt will show through on the outside.

• Wool-based: a material that makes it easier to take advantage of resilience and steam shaping.
• Blended types: offer options in thickness, firmness, and handling.
• Color: selected with consideration for how it will show through or transfer color to the underside of the upper collar or the outer fabric.

How to Choose and Sewing Precautions

When selecting it, check the thickness of the outer fabric, the collar design, the required amount of body, and the sewing specifications together. If something too firm is used with a soft outer fabric, the collar may stand away from the body; conversely, if something too thin is used, the collar edge may not settle properly. It is important to confirm the roll and how it follows the neck using a sewing sample before mass production.

When cutting, care is generally taken so that the thickness on the outer-edge side of the collar does not overlap excessively. During sewing, do not pull and stretch it; let it conform evenly to the curve. When using an iron or steam, test the material's heat resistance, shrinkage, and fading on the outer fabric in advance, and determine the conditions.

Differences from Similar Terms

Under collar felt is a felt-like interlining mainly used on the underside of the upper collar. Collar interlining is sometimes used as a general term for interlinings used in collars, and has a broader meaning than under collar felt. Shirt interlining is an interlining that gives body to shirt collars and cuffs, and its application and required texture differ.

Haircloth interlining refers to interlinings that contain hair, and is also used for body sections and lapels. Bust interlining is an interlining material used in tailored construction to create three-dimensional shape around the chest. In contrast, under collar felt is characterized by being used specifically for shaping and stabilizing the underside of the collar.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can under collar felt be used instead of fusible interlining?

Under collar felt and fusible interlining differ in application and structure. Under collar felt is an interlining mainly sewn into the underside of the upper collar to shape it, while fusible interlining is an interlining attached to the outer fabric with adhesive. Depending on the specification, they may be used together, so whether they can be substituted should be confirmed with a sewing sample.

How should under collar felt be selected?

Select thickness, density, and resilience according to the thickness and firmness of the outer fabric, the collar shape, and the tailoring direction. For thin fabrics, choose a supple type that will not show through on the outside; for heavy outerwear, choose one that can support the collar edge. Also check color and steam-related shrinkage in prototypes.