Button Attachment
Button attachment is the sewing operation of attaching buttons used for opening/closing and decoration on garments and accessories to textile by passing thread through the holes or shank and sewing them on, with reinforcement as needed.
Definition and Overview
Button attachment is the process of attaching buttons to the front opening, cuffs, collar, pockets, and other areas. It aligns the button with the corresponding fastening element, such as a buttonhole or loop, to ensure ease of opening and closing, a good appearance when worn, and sufficient strength. In addition to hand sewing, a button attaching machine may also be used.
Unlike the process of making buttonholes, button attachment refers to the process of fixing the button itself to the garment. Attachment of tack buttons and press fasteners, which clinch components with a setting tool, differs from ordinary thread button attachment.
Button Materials and Structure
Buttons are made from a variety of materials, including shell, real buffalo horn, nut, wood, leather, polyester resin, urea resin, casein resin, metal, and glass. Because gloss, weight, heat resistance, impact resistance, and properties for washing and dry cleaning differ depending on the material, selection is made according to the garment's applications and care instructions.
Buttons with holes are attached by passing thread through the holes, such as two-hole, four-hole, cat's-eye, and raccoon-eye types. Shank buttons have a structure in which thread is passed through a shank on the back, making the thread less visible on the front and suitable for thick fabrics and designs with a three-dimensional feel. Tunnel shanks and ring shanks are differences in shank shape.
How Sizes Are Expressed
The size of a button is expressed by its diameter in mm, and sometimes in ligne. Ligne is a unit used for button dimensions, so in purchase orders and specifications, it is important to clearly confirm whether ligne notation or mm notation is being used.
Size affects not only appearance, but also compatibility with the buttonhole, ease of handling with the fingers, the overlap of the front opening, and fabric thickness. Even with the same diameter, usability changes depending on thickness and shank height, so actual samples must be checked.
Main Applications and Attachment Methods
Buttons with holes and shank buttons are often used for shirts and blouses, while jackets, suits, and coats use buttons selected to match the material feel and thickness. For pants, skirts, dresses, and children's clothing as well, shape, size, and attachment strength are considered according to the opening or decorative area.
For buttons with holes, thread appearance is adjusted according to the design, such as crossing the holes or passing the thread in parallel. Making a thread stem with a slight space between the fabric and the button makes fastening easier even on thick front openings. For thin or stretchy fabrics, a reinforcement button may be attached on the back to distribute the load.
- Check the position and size of the buttonhole in advance.
- Match the sewing thread to the button color, fabric thickness, and required strength.
- For areas where strong force is concentrated on the button during wear, consider backside reinforcement.
Handling and Quality Precautions
Whether washing, dry cleaning, and ironing are possible depends on both the button material and the attachment thread. Buttons containing heat-sensitive resins or adhesive decorations may deform, change gloss, or crack under high-temperature ironing or pressing. Avoid the button with the iron, or use a pressing cloth and check the conditions.
Shell and glass may break from impact, and natural materials have individual variations in color and pattern. Metal buttons require attention to discoloration and corrosion caused by moisture, sweat, detergent components, and similar factors. Before mass production, check for detachment, breakage, discoloration, and effects on the surrounding fabric using the actual fabric, thread, and washing or cleaning conditions.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is thread stemming always necessary in button attachment?
Thread stemming is not always necessary, but it is effective in areas where fabric layers overlap, such as the front opening, and on thick fabrics. Creating a thread stem between the button and the fabric makes it easier to pass through the buttonhole. On thin fabrics, if you want the button to sit close to the fabric, you may omit thread stemming.
Should button size be specified in ligne or mm?
Specify it according to the trading partner's or specification sheet's conventions. Ligne is a size unit used for buttons, but mm notation is also widely used. Do not judge by notation alone; it is important to check the diameter, thickness, shank height, and compatibility with the buttonhole using the actual item.
What causes buttons to crack or discolor during washing?
The main causes are washing, drying, cleaning, or ironing conditions that do not match the material, as well as impact, chemicals, and moisture. In particular, heat-sensitive resins, shell and glass that are prone to impact, and metals that may discolor require prior testing in line with product conditions.
