Cover Stitch
A cover stitch is a sewing method that creates parallel straight stitches on the face and a row of button loop thread on the back, and is mainly used to finish the hems and cuffs of knit products.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Structure
Cover stitch is a type of chain stitch formed with multiple needle threads and button loop threads. Parallel straight stitches appear on the face side, and the back side has a structure in which the threads cover the fabric edge, so it is characterized by good compatibility with stretchy fabrics.
It is generally sewn with a cover stitch machine. Because the appearance on the face side, stretch, and stitch width vary depending on the number of needles and thread threading method, it is important in specifications to confirm the appearance on both the face and back sides.
Position in Product Manufacturing
The main areas of use are hems, cuffs, and necklines of cut-and-sew items, sweatshirts, underwear, sportswear, and similar products. Since edge finishing and hem folding can be done in one process, it is widely used in the sewing process for knit products.
After cutting the fabric, there are many cases where the shoulders and side seams are sewn together, the collar and sleeves are attached, and then the hem and cuffs are folded and cover stitched. When washing or garment dyeing is performed, the process sequence is also verified in advance.
Specification Decisions and Process
At the time of ordering, clearly define the sewing location, the number and width of stitches visible on the face side, thread color, edge finishing method, and the overlap position at the start and end of sewing in the specification sheet or sample instructions. Not only the face side but also the appearance of the button loop thread on the back side is subject to instruction.
Before mass production, confirm with a sewing sample using the actual fabric, thread, and accessories. In particular, for fabrics with large horizontal stretch, thin fabrics, and areas with thickness differences, the finished result changes depending on the fold width and stitch position, so confirm stretch during wear as well.
- Fabric face and back sides and grain direction
- Fold width and stitch position
- Number of stitches, visible width, and thread color
- Start and end positions and overlap
- After-wash shrinkage, waviness, and whether thread breakage occurs
Quality and Ordering Notes
In quality inspection, check for stitch waviness, puckering, needle holes in the fabric, skipped stitches, uneven thread tension, and button loop thread slippage. In areas where stretch is required, it is also important that the stitching does not hinder fabric stretch and that the threads do not break during wear.
If thread tension, differential feed, presser pressure, or needle and thread selection are not appropriate, stitch shrinkage or insufficient stretch will occur. Conditions change depending on the material, fabric weight, and whether processing has been applied, so confirmation by color and by lot may be necessary.
Differences from Similar Terms
Cover stitch refers mainly to a stitch used to cover and finish folded knit edges. Overlock is a stitch used to prevent fraying at cut edges and for seaming, and its applications and appearance differ.
Flatseam is a sewing method often used for flat seaming that suppresses seam allowance overlap. Cover stitch is sometimes called flat seaming, but because the stitch method referred to differs by workplace and customer, confirm with samples and specifications rather than relying on the name alone.
Frequently Asked Questions
What kind of products is cover stitch used for?
It is often used for the hems, cuffs, and necklines of stretchy knit products such as cut-and-sew items, sweatshirts, underwear, and sportswear. Because it can cover the fabric edge while securing the folded section, it follows stretch well, and the parallel stitches on the face side are sometimes shown as a design detail.
Are cover stitch and overlock the same?
No, they are not the same. Cover stitch is mainly used to secure folded hems and similar areas from both the face and back sides, and straight stitches are visible on the face side. Overlock is often used for finishing cut edges and sewing fabrics together, and its stitch structure and main role are different.
Will specifying flat seaming communicate cover stitch?
Flat seaming may refer to cover stitch, but it can also refer to another flat seaming method such as flatseam. When ordering, do not rely on the name alone; it is necessary to specify the sewing location, appearance on the face and back sides, and the number and width of stitches in the specification sheet or with an actual sample.
