Lace Yarn

Definition and Overview

Lace yarn is a yarn used to make knitted fabric in crochet, as well as in craft techniques such as tatting using a shuttle. Many types have a relatively smooth surface and are easy to keep their shape stable so that fine stitches and openwork patterns can be expressed easily.

Unlike lace, which is the finished openwork fabric or decoration, lace yarn is the material used to make it. It also differs from sewing thread and hand-sewing thread, whose main purpose is joining pieces, in the required thickness, twist, and usage.

Materials, Twist, and Structure

Materials commonly include cotton, and also silk, linen, polyester, rayon, and others. Depending on the material, gloss, moisture absorbency, strength, firmness, and how color appears when dyed vary, so it is chosen according to the intended use and the required texture of the work.

To make stitches easier to align, lace yarn commonly has a structure in which multiple yarns are twisted together, or it is given a firm twist. Yarn with an even twist tends to produce patterns with clear outlines, while firmness and feel vary depending on the material and degree of twist.

How Thickness Is Expressed

The thickness of lace yarn may be shown by count number or by a nominal count used by application. In cotton yarn counts, using the same system, a larger number generally means a thinner yarn, but yarns with different labeling systems cannot be compared simply.

Nominal count may have different standards depending on the manufacturer or sales classification. Do not judge by the count number alone; check yarn length, material, recommended crochet hook size, and stitch gauge from a trial swatch, and determine the thickness that matches the required delicacy and density.

• Count is one way to express yarn thickness.
• Nominal count is a thickness indication as a product classification and may not be a common standard.
• Even with the same thickness indication, the finished appearance changes depending on the material and twist.

Main Applications

It is used for motifs, doilies, edging for collars and cuffs, insertions, and costume decoration. The finer the yarn, the easier it is to create delicate openwork patterns; the thicker the yarn, the more presence and dimensionality it gives the fabric, so the fineness of the pattern and the product's usage environment should be considered.

When used in garments, it is also necessary to confirm whether the decorative part will touch the skin or be in a position where it is likely to snag. In constructions where the lace portion is made separately and sewn on, the sewing thread and sewing position should be chosen so that the stretch and shape of the fabric are not hindered.

Selection and Sewing Considerations

When selecting, check the material, thickness, gloss, twist, washing method, color, and required durability. For mass-produced items and products that will be washed frequently, confirm fabric shrinkage, stretch, pilling, and color transfer during the prototype stage, and evaluate any appearance difference from the main fabric.

When sewing on knitted lace, choose a fine needle and a sewing thread that blends with the fabric, and set the thread tension to a lighter setting to prevent puckering. For heat-sensitive materials or glossy yarn, check the iron temperature and pressing cloth in advance, and test on an inconspicuous area.

Frequently Asked Questions