Yarn Count

Definition and Overview

Yarn count is a general term for indicators of yarn thickness, especially for spun yarns. In fixed-weight systems such as cotton count, it is expressed by the length of yarn per a given weight, so the larger the number, the finer the yarn.

The way yarn count is written differs depending on the material, region of origin, and trade customs. For that reason, yarns using different counting systems cannot be directly compared in thickness based only on the yarn count number.

• Single yarn is written as "30 count".
• Double yarn may be written as "30/2," using the count of the original single yarn and the number of plies twisted together.
• For filament yarns made from synthetic fibers, denier and tex are often used.

Characteristics in Fabric

In general, if the material, weave or knit structure, and density are the same, using finer yarn counts tends to give the fabric a more delicate and smooth appearance and makes it easier to design a thinner fabric. With coarser yarn counts, the yarn presence, natural texture, and sturdy impression become more noticeable.

However, fabric thickness, weight, strength, and sheerness are not determined by yarn count alone. The final hand is shaped by the combination of weave or knit structure, warp and weft counts, twist, raw material, and finishing.

Main Applications

Fine-count yarns are used for shirt fabrics, blouse fabrics, and lightweight fabrics such as broadcloth, lawn, and voile. They are also used for designs that aim for a neat surface even in thin fabrics through high-density weaving.

Coarse-count yarns are used for fabrics for casual wear, pants, workwear, and bags such as canvas, denim, and twill. They are suitable when a firm appearance that makes use of yarn thickness is desired.

Selection and Handling Notes

When selecting fabric, check the yarn count together with the material, single or double yarn, structure, density, and fabric weight. Even with the same yarn count, firmness, drape, and surface appearance change depending on whether the yarn is highly twisted, the amount of fuzz, and the combination of yarn counts in warp and weft.

In sewing, thin fabrics with fine-count yarns require attention to needle holes, seam puckering, and shrinkage. For thick fabrics with coarse-count yarns, check in advance the thickness at overlap areas and the selection of needles and thread. Shrinkage after washing should be evaluated based on the material, processing, and fabric specifications, not on yarn count alone.

• In specification sheets, clearly state the counting system and whether the yarn is single or double.
• During prototyping, check thickness, sheerness, and sewability using fabric swatches.
• When comparing yarn counts for different materials, also check notation systems such as denier and tex.

Differences from Similar Terms

Denier is a fixed-length unit that expresses yarn thickness by mass per a given length. In denier, the larger the number, the thicker the yarn. By contrast, in fixed-weight systems such as cotton count, the larger the number is generally, the finer the yarn.

Single yarn and double yarn are terms related to the number of plies that make up the yarn. While yarn count indicates yarn thickness, single yarn and double yarn indicate yarn structure. Double yarn tends to have a smoother surface and more easily achieve strength and stability than single yarn.

Frequently Asked Questions