Twist
Twist is the process of spirally twisting fibers or single yarns together, or it refers to the degree and direction of that twist, and it is a factor that affects the strength, hand, surface appearance, and stretch of thread and textiles.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Twist is the twisting used to bundle short fibers into thread, or to combine multiple single yarns into thread. The degree of twist is expressed by the twist count, and the direction is mainly shown as S twist or Z twist. It is a specification related to thread structure, separate from the material name or yarn count.
Twist appears not only in thread, but also in the appearance of fabric after it has been made into woven or knitted goods. Depending on the combination of warp and weft twist direction and twist strength, smoothness, texture, and the appearance of skewing may change.
Effects on Hand, Function, and Appearance
In general, increasing twist tightens the thread, suppresses fuzz, and tends to give it a smooth, crisp hand. On the other hand, because the fibers hold less air, softness and bulk may decrease depending on the material and structure.
Thread with relatively little twist can make use of bulk and softness more easily, but it is necessary to check for fuzzing and pilling caused by friction. Strongly twisted yarn is used to create a cool-feeling touch and an appearance that takes advantage of fine surface texture.
In addition to affecting how thread looks, twist direction also affects sewing-thread twisting during stitching and how thread breakage occurs. In fabric, if torque from twist remains, it may appear as skewing or twisting after washing.
Main Applications
Twist design is relevant to a wide range of apparel fabrics, including shirts, blouses, dresses, knits, suits, uniforms, and towels. Especially for spring and summer, it may be used to create a dry touch and a breathable feel through strong twist.
For autumn and winter, thread with less twist or fancy yarn may be used to express bulk, softness, and a warm appearance. However, seasonality is not determined by twist alone; it is judged together with material, density, structure, and napping.
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting fabric, check not only the twist count and twist direction, but also the fiber type, yarn count, whether it is single yarn or plied yarn, weave or knit structure, and finishing. In the planning stage, it is important to evaluate hand, sheerness, drape, and durability using actual swatches or prototypes.
Materials with residual torque from twist may cause hardware to twist or seams to ripple during cutting or sewing. It is reassuring to align the grain before cutting and to conduct tests and washing checks that account for shrinkage and skewing before and after sewing.
Shrinkage and changes in hand caused by washing cannot be predicted from twist alone. In particular, natural fibers and strongly twisted materials may change appearance depending on the washing and drying method, so check the care label and the supplier's handling conditions.
Differences from Similar Terms
Twist count is an index that indicates the number of twists added over a given length. While twist broadly refers to the twisting itself, twist count is a numerical specification used to manage and compare the degree of twist.
Twist direction is the direction of the yarn twist. S twist and Z twist are distinguished by the slant of their appearance and are different from the strength of twist. Also, strongly twisted yarn is the name for yarn with strong twist; it does not refer to twist in general.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are yarns with a higher twist count stronger?
Increasing the twist count may tighten the yarn, suppress fuzz, and contribute to strength and abrasion resistance. However, strength is also affected by the fiber type, fiber length, yarn count, and whether it is single yarn or plied yarn. A higher twist count does not necessarily mean greater strength, so comprehensive confirmation based on the application is necessary.
Does fabric made from strongly twisted yarn shrink when washed?
Shrinkage cannot be determined from the fact that the yarn is strongly twisted alone. The degree of shrinkage varies depending on fiber properties, weave or knit structure, dyeing and finishing, and washing and drying conditions. Also, texture and unevenness may become more noticeable after washing. Before mass production, perform test washing and check dimensions and appearance.
Are S twist and Z twist important when selecting fabric?
In normal fabric selection, material, structure, industry weight, and hand are often checked first. However, they become important when specifying fabrics that create texture through twist, such as crepe, sewing thread, or combinations of twisted yarn. If twisting or skewing is a concern, confirm the twist direction as part of the specification.
