Keyhole Buttonhole
A keyhole buttonhole is a buttonhole with one end of a straight slit rounded to make it easier to pass a button shank or thickness through.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
A keyhole buttonhole is a buttonhole made by forming a round opening at one end of a narrow slit and stitching around it. Because the round part resembles a keyhole, it is also called a keyhole buttonhole. It is mainly used to let a button shank or thickness pass through smoothly.
"Hatome" can also refer to an eyelet reinforced by driving in a metal or resin ring, but a keyhole buttonhole is basically a buttonhole shape made by sewing. It differs from a metal eyelet in both structure and use.
Shape and Difference from a Straight Buttonhole
A keyhole buttonhole consists of a narrow section for the button to pass through and a round section that accommodates the shank or thickness. The round section helps buttons with a shank, thick buttons, covered buttons, and similar styles pass through.
A straight buttonhole generally refers to a linear buttonhole with rounded ends. Straight buttonholes are often used for flat two-hole buttons and four-hole buttons, while keyhole buttonholes may be chosen for shank buttons and similar styles.
- The length of the buttonhole is determined by considering the button size and the thickness of the textile.
- The size of the round section is checked to make sure the button shank, covered part, or maximum thickness can pass through smoothly.
- The stitch density and whether reinforcement is used depend on the thickness of the textile and the load during wear.
Main Applications
Keyhole buttonholes are found on front openings and cuffs of jackets, suits, and coats, and are also used on thick shirts, vests, and fly extensions on pants. They are especially considered for sections using shank buttons, from the standpoint of both practicality and design.
When made with hand-sewn-style buttonhole stitching or with thicker buttonhole twist thread, the outline of the keyhole buttonhole becomes more noticeable. In mass production, buttonhole machines are often used, and specifications clearly state the buttonhole shape, length, direction, and thread color.
Dimension Notation and Specification Instructions
The size of the keyhole buttonhole itself is usually managed by the overall length of the opening and the diameter of the round section in mm. Button sizes may be indicated in lignes as well as mm, and 1 ligne is approx. 2.54 mm. Button dimensions and buttonhole dimensions are not the same, so they must not be confused.
When deciding specifications, the fit is checked using test pieces with the actual button and the outer fabric and interfacing layered together. In addition to the button's outside diameter, shank height, buildup from winding the thread around the base, and the thickness and stretch of the textile also affect the proper opening size.
How to Attach and Handling Precautions
Mark the cutting position after checking the grain line and the finished front edge, and reinforce with interfacing as needed for stretchy or thick textiles. After buttonholing, the slit is cut open, but care is needed because cutting too far into the round section can damage the buttonhole stitching or widen the opening.
For washing and dry cleaning, fasten the buttons and place the garment in a laundry bag to reduce snagging on the buttonhole section and excessive friction. When ironing, use a pressing cloth so as not to crush the buttonhole stitching or surrounding textile, and iron at a temperature suitable for the button material.
- Check before and after wearing for fraying, broken thread, or stretching of the opening.
- Forcing a large button through can cause the buttonhole stitching to break or the textile to tear.
- Unlike metal eyelets, the keyhole buttonhole itself does not crack or discolor from metal oxidation.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a keyhole buttonhole and an eyelet?
A keyhole buttonhole is a keyhole-shaped buttonhole with a rounded end section stitched in to let a button pass through. An eyelet refers to a metal or resin ring that reinforces the area around a hole, or to a hole fitted with such hardware. The names are similar, but the materials and uses are different.
What kind of button is a keyhole buttonhole suitable for?
It is suitable for shank buttons, covered buttons, thick buttons, and similar styles where extra room is needed to pass the button shank or thickness. However, suitability is not determined by the button alone; the layered thickness of the outer fabric and interfacing, the strength of the buttonhole stitching, and how often it is opened and closed are also considered.
Should the length of a keyhole buttonhole be the same as the button diameter?
No. It is adjusted through prototyping with the button shape, thickness, shank height, and textile thickness taken into account, assuming the button must pass through. If it is too long, it tends to shift when fastened; if it is too short, it puts stress on the buttonhole section when opened and closed.
