Straight Buttonhole
A sleep buttonhole is a straight buttonhole reinforced at the edges with sewing thread, used in plackets and cuffs as a standard button hole.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
A ne-muri buttonhole is a buttonhole with a straight slit in the fabric and the surrounding area reinforced with oversewing. It is a hole used to fasten a button, and its shape and application differ from an eyelet buttonhole, which has one side rounded and reinforced.
It does not refer to a type of button hole or button shank. The length and reinforcement method of a ne-muri buttonhole are considered according to the shape of the button used, such as two-hole buttons, four-hole buttons, and shank buttons.
Structure and Material Considerations
A ne-muri buttonhole consists of the slit, the surrounding oversewing yarn, and the securing ends that prevent fraying at both ends. If the textile is thin, prone to stretching, or loosely woven, the area around the buttonhole is reinforced with fusible interlining or similar material to stabilize the shape.
The oversewing yarn can match the textile color, or it can be used as a design feature in a contrasting color. The thickness, luster, and strength of the yarn affect appearance and resistance to wear, so it is selected according to the thickness of the textile and the product application.
How to Express Size and Design
The dimensions of a ne-muri buttonhole are generally expressed as the length of the hole in mm. In addition to the diameter of the button to be inserted, the thickness, shank height, button shape, and textile thickness are considered, and the length is set so that it is easy to fasten and not easily come undone by mistake.
Ligne is mainly a unit indicating button diameter, and mm is normally used for dimension control of the ne-muri buttonhole itself. In the specifications, stating the hole length as well as the direction of the hole, position, oversewing yarn color, and whether reinforcement is used can reduce misunderstandings.
- At the front opening, check whether the button position and hole position are aligned.
- At areas subjected to lateral load, check the hole direction and the stretch direction of the textile.
- Before mass production, perform opening and closing tests with the actual button and textile.
Main Applications and Tailoring Notes
Ne-muri buttonholes are used for button fastening in a wide range of garments, including shirt and blouse front openings and cuffs, jackets, coats, skirts, and pants. Because of their straight shape, they are characterized by a relatively clean appearance.
Repeated washing and fastening can cause thread breakage at the hole ends, fuzzing, and stretching of the hole. Handling in accordance with the care label, washing with the buttons unfastened, and using a laundry net are effective measures to reduce snagging.
Whether dry cleaning and ironing are allowed, and at what temperature, depends not on the buttonhole alone but on the fabric, interlining, and button material. Be careful, as applying a hot iron directly and strongly may flatten the oversewing yarn or cause fading in the textile. Cracking and discoloration are mainly issues related to the button material.
Difference from Eyelet Buttonholes
An eyelet buttonhole is a buttonhole with one side rounded and reinforced, and it is used for thick coats, jacket lapels, and areas subjected to force. A ne-muri buttonhole is straight overall and is suitable for general button fastening, including shirts.
However, the choice is not determined by garment type alone. It is selected based on a comprehensive consideration of textile thickness, design, button size, frequency of fastening, and sewing specifications.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you determine the length of a ne-muri buttonhole from the button size?
Based on the button diameter, the length is set in mm by taking into account the button thickness, shank height, textile thickness, and ease of fastening. Rather than deciding only by dimensions, it is important to make a prototype with the actual button and textile to confirm the pass-through and holding performance.
How do you distinguish between a ne-muri buttonhole and an eyelet buttonhole?
A ne-muri buttonhole is straight and used for general button fastening such as front openings and cuffs. An eyelet buttonhole has a rounded side and is used for relatively thick textiles and areas subjected to force. In the end, the decision is made based on the design, textile, and button specifications.
