Kissing Buttons
Kissing buttons are a construction detail in which multiple buttons are arranged and attached without spacing, with the edges touching, and are mainly used to decorate the cuffs of jackets and coats.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Overlapping buttons are a buttoning specification in which buttons are placed so that the outer edges of adjacent buttons touch or slightly overlap. In English, they are called kissing buttons, and the term refers to the arrangement rather than the material or shape of the buttons themselves.
They are often used on the cuffs of tailored jackets. Compared with ordinary sleeve buttons, which are spaced evenly apart, they create a more decorative and denser look. Whether they are made to actually open and close or sewn on as decoration depends on the buttonholes and the cuff construction.
Materials and Structure
Overlapping buttons can use hole buttons such as two-hole, four-hole, or cat-eye styles, as well as shank buttons with ring shanks or tunnel shanks. Thin hole buttons fit the cuff more easily, while shank buttons can create more dimensionality; however, the thickness of the overlapping area must be checked.
Materials are selected according to the garment fabric application and washing conditions, such as polyester resin, urea resin, shell, buffalo horn, and metal. In addition to matching size and color, the center button may sometimes be changed in color or material for emphasis.
- Hole buttons: the thread is visible on the surface and can be attached relatively flat.
- Shank buttons: thread is passed through the shank on the back of the button, so thread is less visible on the surface.
- Backer buttons: small buttons placed on the back side of the shell fabric and used to reinforce the button-attaching area.
Size Notation
Button size is indicated either by diameter in mm or by lignes. Lignes are a unit used for button sizes, and purchase orders and specifications may state this as “so many lignes” or “diameter so many mm.”
When placing buttons so they overlap, consider not only button diameter but also thickness, thread position, and cuff width. Even with the same size, the appearance and how the buttons meet can change depending on the roundness and thickness of the outer edge, so checking with the actual buttons arranged together is important.
Main Uses and Installation Notes
The main use is on the cuffs of jackets, suits, and coats. In particular, for genuine working cuffs that open, the relationship between the buttonholes and button positions is designed so the buttons do not interfere with each other when opened or closed. Even when attached as decorative buttons, the cuff seam allowance and overlap with the lining must be considered.
Because the buttons are attached where they touch, slight misalignment in the stitching position makes uneven spacing noticeable. Mark positions based on the finished line, and align the button direction, the height of the thread wrap, and the length of the thread shank. With thick fabrics or shank buttons, also check whether the buttons will press against each other when the sleeve is worn.
- For genuine working cuffs, check the width of the buttonhole stitching and the button diameter in advance.
- For hole buttons, pulling the thread too tightly may cause cracking or chipping.
- When using backer buttons, check the thickness on the reverse side and the wearing comfort.
Handling and Differences from Similar Terms
Resistance to washing or dry cleaning depends not on the overlapping button arrangement, but on the button material, coating, plating, and similar factors. Natural materials such as shell, buffalo horn, and casein may change appearance due to prolonged exposure to moisture, heat, or chemicals. Metal buttons also require attention to discoloration caused by humidity and friction.
When ironing, do not press directly and strongly on the buttons; use a pressing cloth and control the temperature according to the fabric and the button’s markings and properties. Resin buttons may deform under high heat, and glass or natural-material buttons may break from impact. Check the care label and the attached handling conditions together.
Overlapping buttons are not a type of button such as a covered button or crest button, but rather a method of placing buttons. In general, they refer to sleeve buttons in which multiple buttons are attached in a row with almost no gap.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many buttons are usually attached for overlapping buttons?
At the cuff, multiple buttons are often arranged in a row, but there is no fixed rule for the number. It is determined by cuff length, button diameter, the style of the garment, and whether it is a genuine working cuff or a decorative specification. Priority is given to a layout in which the buttons naturally touch each other and do not interfere when the sleeve is bent.
Is there a button shape that is suitable for overlapping buttons?
Both flat hole buttons and shank buttons can be used. If a neat finish is desired, thinner hole buttons are an option; if dimensionality is desired, shank buttons are an option. However, for thick buttons, check for interference between adjacent buttons and the cuff fit.
Do overlapping buttons and genuine working cuffs mean the same thing?
No, they do not mean the same thing. Overlapping buttons are a placement specification in which buttons are arranged so that they touch, while a genuine working cuff is a cuff construction with buttonholes that actually open. Overlapping buttons may be used on genuine working cuffs, but they are separate elements.
