Kissing Buttons

Definition and Overview

Kissing buttons are a button attachment specification in which adjacent buttons are placed so that their outer edges touch or slightly overlap. In English, they are called kissing buttons, and the term refers not to the button’s material or shape, but mainly to the arrangement.

They are often used at the cuffs of tailored jackets, and compared with ordinary cuff buttons spaced at equal intervals, they create a more decorative and denser look. Whether they are actually functional or sewn on as decoration depends on the buttonholes and the cuff construction.

Materials and Construction

Kissing buttons can use holed buttons such as two-hole, four-hole, and cat’s-eye styles, as well as shank buttons with a loop shank or tunnel shank. Thin holed buttons blend easily into cuffs, while shank buttons more readily create a three-dimensional look, though the thickness of the overlapping sections must be checked.

Materials are selected according to the garment fabric’s purpose and washing conditions, such as polyester resin, urea resin, shell, water buffalo, and metal. In some cases, the same size and color are used throughout, while in others the center button is changed in color or material as an accent.

• Holed buttons: the thread is visible on the front, and they can be attached relatively flat.
• Shank buttons: the thread is passed through the shank on the back of the button, so the thread is less visible on the surface.
• Back-up buttons: small buttons placed on the underside of the outer fabric and used to reinforce the button-attaching area.

How Size Is Expressed

Button size is shown either by diameter in mm or in lignes. Lignes are a unit used for button sizes, and in orders and specifications they are written as, for example, "x lignes" or "diameter x mm."

When arranged in an overlapping layout, the button diameter alone is not enough; thickness, the stitch position of the button, and cuff width must also be considered. Even for the same size, the appearance and contact between buttons can change depending on the roundness and thickness of the outer edges, so checking them in person is important.

Main Uses and Attachment Notes

The main use is at the cuffs of jackets, suits, and coats. In particular, for working cuffs where the cuff opens, the relationship between the buttonholes and button positions is designed so that the buttons do not interfere with each other when opened or closed. Even when used as decorative buttons, the seam allowance at the cuff and overlap with the lining must be considered.

Because the buttons are attached where they touch, a slight shift in the sewing position makes uneven spacing noticeable. Mark the positions based on the finished line, and align the button direction, the height of the thread wrapping, and the length of the thread shank. For thick fabrics and shank buttons, also check that the buttons do not press against each other when the sleeve is worn.

• For working cuffs, check the width of the buttonhole stitching and the button diameter in advance.
• For holed buttons, tightening the thread too much may cause cracking or chipping.
• If using back-up buttons, check the thickness on the reverse side and the wearing comfort.

Handling and Differences from Similar Terms

Resistance to washing and dry cleaning depends not on the kissing-button arrangement, but on the button’s material, coating, plating, and so on. Natural materials such as shell, water buffalo, and casein may change in appearance with prolonged exposure to moisture, heat, or chemicals. Metal buttons also require attention to discoloration from moisture and friction.

When ironing, do not press directly on the button; use a pressing cloth and control the temperature according to the garment fabric and the button’s markings and properties. Resin buttons may deform at high temperatures, and glass or natural-material buttons may crack from impact. Check the care label and the accessory handling conditions together.

Kissing buttons are not a type of button such as cloth buttons or crest buttons, but a method of button arrangement. In addition, among cuff buttons attached in a row, the term generally refers to those with almost no gap between them.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many buttons are usually used for kissing buttons?

Multiple buttons are often arranged at the cuff, but there is no fixed rule for the number. It is decided based on cuff length, button diameter, the style of the garment, and whether it is a working cuff or a decorative specification. Priority is given to a layout where the buttons naturally touch and do not interfere when the sleeve is bent.

Is there a button shape that is suitable for kissing buttons?

Either flat holed buttons or shank buttons can be used. If you want a clean finish, thinner holed buttons are an option; if you want a more three-dimensional look, shank buttons are an option. However, for thick buttons, check for interference between adjacent buttons and how they sit at the cuff.

Are kissing buttons and working cuffs the same thing?

No, they are not the same. Kissing buttons are a button arrangement specification in which the buttons are placed touching each other, while a working cuff is a cuff construction in which the buttonholes actually open. Kissing buttons may be used on working cuffs, but they are separate elements.