Shoulder Tape

Definition and Overview

Shoulder tape is a stretch-preventing tape used on the seam allowance side of the shoulder seam that joins the front and back body panels. It suppresses stretching of the shoulder seam caused by wear, hanging on a hanger, washing, and similar factors, and helps maintain the garment’s shoulder width and neckline shape.

It is especially used on stretchy fabrics such as knits and cut-and-sewn materials, but it is also used on lightweight woven fabrics, shoulder seams that tend to stretch in the bias direction, and garments with heavy sleeves. It is an internal component not visible from the outside, and it affects both appearance and stability during wear.

Placement and Function

In general, it is placed along the shoulder seam from the shoulder point to the neckline side, and is stitched into the seam allowance when sewing the shoulder seam. Rather than simply reinforcing the seam itself, it controls stretching of the seam allowance and helps prevent the shoulder point from drooping and the neckline from opening up.

The need for shoulder tape varies depending on fabric stretch, garment weight, shoulder seam direction, and design. In styles that require gathering or easing at the shoulder seam, the usage range and stitching method are considered so that the required fullness is not lost.

• Stretch prevention at shoulder seams of cut-and-sewn items and knits
• Stabilizing shoulder seams and neckline shape in shirts and blouses
• Reinforcing shoulder seams in jackets and outerwear
• Preventing shape distortion at the shoulder point from hanger storage and wear

Types and Cutting Method

Shoulder tape includes narrow strips made from woven fabric or knit material, as well as nonwoven types. The basic choice is a tape with little stretch, but depending on fabric movement, a slightly stretchable type may also be selected.

Cutting methods include a straight type cut parallel to the grain, a bias type cut on the diagonal, and a half-bias type in between. The straight type is suitable for strong stretch prevention, while the bias type is used when considering conformity to curves and fabric movement.

There are adhesive types with glue applied and non-adhesive types that are fixed by stitching. Adhesive types have advantages in positioning and workability, but compatibility with the material must be confirmed. Non-adhesive types are fixed by sewing only, so they are easier to consider for heat-sensitive materials.

Selection and Sewing Considerations

The width is selected according to the seam allowance width of the shoulder seam, the sewing method, and the range to be reinforced. If it is too wide, it may be difficult to fit within the seam allowance; if it is too narrow, stitching may become unstable. The tape’s stretch is determined by both the elasticity of the outer fabric and the holding power required at the shoulder seam.

If a non-stretch tape is pulled tightly when sewn in, the shoulder seam may shrink or puckering may appear in the stitching. Conversely, if the outer fabric is stretched while sewing, waviness is more likely to occur after sewing. In principle, the outer fabric and tape should be layered in their natural state, and feed amount and thread tension should be checked in advance.

For adhesive types, perform a test bond with the outer fabric before mass production and confirm the temperature, time, and pressure conditions. It is important to check under conditions close to the final product whether stiffness is noticeable after bonding, whether fading appears on the outer fabric, or whether peeling occurs after washing.

Differences from Similar Terms

Shoulder tape is a term that indicates the placement and purpose, referring to stretch-preventing material used at the shoulder seam. Stretch-preventing tape is a broader term that refers to tape in general used to suppress stretching not only at shoulder seams but also at necklines, front edges, pocket openings, zipper attachment positions, and other areas.

Back tape is mainly used from the back neckline to the shoulder seam area, and in addition to reinforcing the seam allowance, it may also serve as neckline finishing or decoration. Although its usage area may overlap with shoulder tape, it differs in that back tape usually refers to specifications on the back body side.

Frequently Asked Questions