Pocket Facing

Definition and Overview

Pocket facing refers to the fabric mainly used at the opening of a pocket. Through folding or stitching in, it creates a piping-like edge at the pocket opening and serves to cover the seam allowance at the slit while shaping the opening.

Placement and Function

It is used for slant pockets on slacks, chest pockets and hip pockets on jackets, and similar details. It reinforces the pocket opening, which is subjected to force when hands or items are inserted and removed, and suppresses fraying at the edges and exposed seam allowance.

The visible width, length, and corner finish of the pocket facing affect the look of the pocket. A narrow single piping gives a delicate, neat impression, while double piping makes the opening look more distinct.

Materials and Types

For pocket facing, in addition to self-fabric using the same fabric as the outer fabric, a different fabric may be used to account for abrasion and thickness. Whether to show color or texture differences from the outer fabric is determined by the product design and specifications.

Woven fabrics are generally used, but with lightweight fabrics, highly stretchy fabric, or fuzzy fabric, the shape may be harder to stabilize. If necessary, interlining is used together to support the crease and the strength of the pocket opening.

• Pocket facing for a single piping: used for specifications that create an edge on one side.
• Pocket facing for double piping: used for specifications that create two edges on the top and bottom or left and right.
• Self-fabric pocket facing: used when emphasizing a unified look with the outer fabric.
• Separate-fabric pocket facing: used when adjusting thickness, durability, or color combinations.

Selection and Sewing Considerations

Pocket facing is selected by checking thickness, weave density, stretch, and iron-shaping performance relative to the outer fabric. If it is too thick, the seam allowances can overlap and create bulk; if it is too thin, the outline of the piping is harder to define, so sewing trials in advance are important.

When cutting, align the grain, and for pockets with a left-right pair, keep the direction and pattern of the pocket facing consistent. Make the slit at the pocket opening precisely up to the edge of the seam line, and avoid cutting too far into the corners to reduce corner tearing and piping lift.

When applying interlining, check compatibility not only with the pocket facing but also with the outer fabric. If the bonding conditions are not appropriate, it may become too stiff, peel off, or cause fading on the outer fabric, so evaluation including washing and pressing is carried out before mass production.

Differences from Similar Terms

Piping is often a term that refers to the narrow edge itself formed at a pocket opening, or to the finishing of that edge. In contrast, pocket facing refers to the fabric used to form that piping. However, in practice, the two terms are sometimes used with nearly the same meaning.

The underlap fabric is attached to the front side of the pocket bag and is used to cover the part visible from the opening with the outer fabric or similar material. While pocket facing is mainly a component that forms the edge, underlap fabric is a component related to the appearance and reinforcement of the pocket bag.

Frequently Asked Questions