Patch Pocket
A patch pocket is an external pocket made by placing a separately cut pocket piece on the surface of a body panel or similar part and stitching around it.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
A patch pocket is a specification in which the pocket bag is not built into the inside of the body panel, but a pocket piece is placed on top of the outer fabric and stitched on. The pocket opening is placed along the top edge, and the other edges are secured with the stitching line. Because its structure is easy to see, it is a pocket that creates a casual impression.
Patch pockets come in square, rounded-corner, and home plate shapes, and may also include a flap, button, or zipper at the opening. Because they add an accent to the appearance, they are used as a detail that combines storage function and design appeal.
Placement and Function
They are placed on the chest, waist, hips, sleeves, and other areas, where they function as storage for hands and small items. In workwear and outdoor wear, they make it easier to secure capacity, and the position and shape of the pocket can be used to adjust workability.
Chest pockets mainly improve carryability for small items, while waist pockets mainly serve hand access and storage. Size, opening width, depth, and angle are designed based on the items to be carried, ease of access during movement, and overall balance.
Materials and Types
In general, the same fabric as the body panel is used, but color-contrast fabric, denim, canvas, twill, synthetic leather, and similar materials may also be used to provide reinforcement or a design accent. With lightweight or highly stretchable fabric, care is needed so that the pocket opening and stitched areas do not stretch or pucker.
Finishing at the opening includes a double-fold hem, facing, or lining. Typical patch pocket variations also include a gusseted version for added capacity, a flap version that covers the opening, and a version with reinforced corners to handle stress during use.
- Same-fabric specification: A specification that makes it easy to create a sense of unity with the body panel.
- Color-contrast specification: A specification that makes the pocket outline stand out and enhances the design.
- Gusseted specification: A specification that makes it easier to insert bulky items.
- Flap specification: A specification that helps prevent stored items from falling out and reduces the entry of rain and dust.
Sewing and Handling Precautions
Before cutting, check the grain direction, and make sure the pattern, ribs, and nap match on the left and right and top and bottom of the pocket. For patterned fabric, matching the pattern with the body panel is also important. Since misalignment in the sewing position is easy to see on the finished appearance, use notches and sewing guides to place it accurately.
Since stress tends to concentrate at the pocket opening and lower corners, use bar tacks or reinforcing stitching as needed. With heavyweight fabric, seam allowances tend to stack up and create step-like bulk, while with lightweight fabric, seam shrinkage and puckering are more likely, so confirm the needle, sewing thread, presser-foot pressure, and sewing conditions that suit the fabric.
For projects that involve washing or garment washing, check in advance whether there will be differences in shrinkage or color fading between the body panel and the pocket. With materials that stretch at the pocket opening, reinforcement with interfacing or stay tape should also be considered.
Differences from Similar Terms
A box pocket, single-welt pocket, or double-welt pocket is a slash pocket in which the body panel is cut open and the pocket opening is finished with welts or a pocket facing. In contrast, a patch pocket differs in that the body panel is not cut open and the pocket piece is stitched onto the surface.
A flap pocket is the name for a pocket with a flap that covers the pocket opening. A flap can also be attached to a patch pocket, so the two are not mutually exclusive categories. The pocket backing and pocket facing refer to constituent parts used inside the pocket or around the opening.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are patch pocket and out pocket the same?
In many cases, both refer to a pocket visible on the outside of a garment, and are treated as another name for a patch pocket. However, out pocket is sometimes used as a broader term focusing on the externally attached appearance, so in specifications it is safer to specify the shape, gusset, and whether there is a flap.
How do you prevent the corners of a patch pocket from fraying or tearing?
Because stress tends to concentrate at both ends of the pocket opening and at the lower corners, consider bar tacks, backstitching, or reinforcing stitching. If the fabric is thin, partial interfacing is also effective. However, reinforcement may create stiffness or fading, so check compatibility with the outer fabric using samples.
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