Double Knit

Definition and Overview

Double knit is a double-layer knitted fabric made on a knitting machine that primarily uses two needle beds. Because the front and back stitches are linked, it tends to be thicker and hold its shape better than a typical single-layer circular knit fabric. Rather than referring to a specific structure name, it is used as a general term for knit fabrics with a double-layer structure.

The appearance of the front and back surfaces is not necessarily the same, and it varies depending on the thread used and the knit structure. Some can be used with either side as the face, but the term “double-sided knit” does not by itself mean that the appearance is completely identical or that the fabric is reversible.

Texture and Performance

It has moderate thickness and firmness, and it is a feature that makes it relatively easy to create a neat impression while still being a knit fabric. In structures that trap air between the knit layers, fullness and warmth retention can also be achieved. On the other hand, softness, weight, stretch, and breathability vary greatly depending on the material, industry weight, and structure.

It has stretch, but many types have less give than single-layer knits such as jersey, and the stretch may differ between the horizontal and vertical directions. When evaluating specifications, it is important to check not only the appearance but also the recovery after stretching, curling at the edges, and the taut feel when worn using an actual sample.

Main Applications

Taking advantage of the fabric’s stability, it is used for cut-and-sew items, pullovers, cardigans, dresses, skirts, pants, and jackets. It is suited to designs that are less likely to cling to the body’s lines and that need to maintain a certain three-dimensional shape after sewing.

The suitable season varies depending on the thickness and blended materials, but in many cases it is used for spring and autumn garments or autumn and winter garments. Thin, smooth types can also be used in spring and summer, but even within double knit, the feel of heat and weight is not uniform.

Selection and Handling Notes

When selecting, check the industry weight, fabric width, thickness, stretch direction, rebound, and the appearance of the front and back. Choose according to the properties required by the item, such as firmness and recovery for jackets and pants, or hand feel and drape for tops. If polyurethane is included, consider changes in performance over time as well.

Shrinkage and twisting from washing differ depending on the fiber type, knitting density, and finishing process. Before cutting, if necessary, perform scouring and grain alignment, and carry out wash testing before mass production. In sewing, choose thread and stitching that follow the fabric’s stretch, and adjust to suppress puckering caused by feed and seam stretching.

• Align the grain and front/back sides before and after cutting.
• Because seam allowances tend to become bulky, check specifications at overlapping sections.
• Use a pressing cloth when ironing, and be careful of shine and flattening of the knit fabric caused by excessive pressure.

Differences from Similar Terms

Interlock and smooth are sometimes treated as representative knit structures included in double knit. However, double knit is not a term that refers to a specific stitch only, so when placing an order, confirm the structure, material, thickness, and front/back specifications as well.

Double knit cardboard fabric refers to a structure that creates space with threads connecting the front and back surfaces, and it is distinguished from double knit in that it often has greater fullness. In addition, double weave and double face may refer to double structures in woven fabrics, and the manufacturing method differs from double knit, which is a knitted fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is double knit a thick fabric?

Many types are felt to be thick, but thickness is not determined by the name double knit alone. Depending on the thread thickness, knitting density, structure, and finishing, it ranges from thin to thick. Check the industry weight, thickness, and sheerness with a swatch or actual sample, and choose one that suits the application.

Does double knit shrink in home laundering?

The degree of shrinkage varies depending on the fiber composition, such as cotton, wool, or polyester, as well as the knit structure and finishing. Fabrics containing natural fibers may change dimension when washed. Before productization, it is necessary to check the fabric care label and confirm the shrinkage rate under the intended washing conditions.

What should be noted when sewing double knit?

If the seam does not follow the fabric’s stretch, skipped stitches or seam waviness may occur. Adjust the differential feed and presser foot pressure to suit the fabric, and consider needles for knits and stretch-compatible stitching specifications. For thick fabrics, also be careful of feeding issues at stepped sections.