Faille

Definition and Overview

Faille is a woven fabric with fine horizontal ribs on the surface, created by using weft yarns that are thicker than, or more densely packed than, the warp yarns. It was originally known as a silk fabric, but today it is made from a variety of fibers, including cotton, rayon, and polyester.

Texture and Appearance Characteristics

Its horizontal ribs give it a distinctive look, and it tends to show shading more easily than smooth textiles. In general, it has a firm body and a slightly stiff hand, and while not as lustrous as satin, some types have an elegant, subdued sheen.

The texture varies greatly depending on thickness, rib size, and material. Those made with filament yarn are relatively smooth and tend to have more luster, while those made with spun yarn are more likely to have a calm texture, so it is important to check the rib appearance and drape on a swatch.

Main Applications

It is suited to items where a structured shape is desired, and is used for jackets, skirts, dresses, bottoms, and more. Because the ribs add decorative character, it is suitable for designs that need texture even in a solid fabric.

Suitable seasons vary depending on the material and fabric weight. Lightweight versions may be used for blouses and dresses, while heavier versions may be used for jackets and autumn/winter items. For formalwear and costume use, choose it after checking the sheen, depth of color, and tailoring appearance.

• Jackets and suits
• Skirts and dresses
• Formalwear
• Dresses and stage costumes

How to Choose and Handling Precautions

Depending on the intended use, check the material, fabric weight, rib size, body, and drape. Choose a softer type for designs that should follow the body, and a more structured type for sculptural silhouettes. Since the appearance of the surface ribs and sheen changes with color, it is important to check them in the actual color.

Shrinkage and changes in texture caused by washing depend on fiber composition, dyeing, and finishing. In particular, items containing natural fibers or rayon should be checked in advance for washability and shrinkage rate, and testing and trial washing should be carried out before mass production. When ironing, use a pressing cloth and test the temperature and steam on a scrap to avoid flattening the ribs or causing fading.

When cutting, keep the direction of the ribs consistent across all parts, and if necessary, cut in one direction only. During sewing, thick materials can become bulky at overlaps, and the uneven texture of the ribs may make the seams look irregular. Adjust the needle, thread, and presser foot pressure using a fabric sample, and decide the seam finishing according to the fraying tendency.

Differences from Similar Terms

Grosgrain is similar to faille in that it also has horizontal ribs, but it is often sold as ribbon, and its ribs may be more pronounced and firmer. Faille, on the other hand, is often treated as a fabric for apparel, and there is a wide range in rib fineness and texture.

Taffeta is a thin, high-density woven fabric characterized by body and a rustling sound. Faille can also have body, but when distinguishing it, the presence or absence of horizontal ribs is a useful guide. Poplin is also a woven fabric with visible horizontal ribs, but its material, thickness, sheen, and applications do not necessarily match those of faille.

Frequently Asked Questions