Japanese Embroidery
Japanese embroidery is a general term for embroidery techniques and expressions developed in Japan, in which patterns are hand-rendered on Japanese-style dyed and woven goods and accessories mainly using silk yarn and gold and silver yarn.
Contents5 sections
Definition and Overview
Japanese embroidery is hand embroidery that creates patterns on the surface of fabric with needle and thread. It is used for decoration on kimono, obi, half collars, pouches, stage costumes, and more, and it expresses delicate shading and dimensionality through the luster, twist, and thickness of the thread, as well as the direction of the stitching.
Compared with the broader term embroidery in general, Japanese embroidery is often used to refer to techniques and designs closely associated with traditional Japanese clothing and Japanese-style pattern expression. However, the thread and techniques used vary depending on the work, region of origin, and maker.
How to Use and Main Techniques
Stretch the fabric with the underdrawing transferred onto it on an embroidery frame or similar tool, and stitch along the design. By combining methods such as filling in areas, outlining shapes, and laying thread on top of the fabric and securing it with another thread, flowers, birds, auspicious patterns, vessels, and other motifs are expressed.
Silk thread may be used with its twist adjusted, and if the direction of the thread becomes uneven, the reflection of light and the appearance will change. For threads such as gold and silver thread that are difficult to pass through the needle eye, a method is used in which they are laid on the fabric and held down with fine thread.
- A stitching method that evens out and fills flat surfaces
- A stitching method that makes outlines and lines stand out
- Karadori, which stretches and secures thread to express gold and silver thread and similar materials
- A Sagara-style expression that builds up a granular thread surface to create volume
Types and Selection
When selecting materials, check the gloss and texture you want to express, the thickness of the base fabric, and the intended use environment. Silk thread is well suited to making use of its smooth sheen, and gold and silver thread provides a striking accent. On the other hand, if the base fabric is thin, attention must be paid to the weight of the embroidery and thread puckering.
For beginners, it is easier to handle a fabric with a stable weave, embroidery thread that is less likely to fray, and a needle thickness suited to the intended use. When applying it to apparel, also check the stiffness of the embroidered area, the thread finishing on the back side, and whether it may snag during wear as part of the specifications.
Kyoshishu is the name for embroidery that developed in Kyoto, and it is not synonymous with Japanese embroidery as a whole. Wa-shishu is sometimes used with nearly the same meaning as Japanese embroidery, but the scope of the term may differ depending on the seller or maker.
Care and Safety Notes
For finished items, avoid strong friction, catching, and prolonged direct sunlight. Because cleaning resistance differs depending on the material of the embroidery thread, gold and silver thread, and base fabric, determine whether washing is possible according to the product's care label and the material information at the time of production. During storage, avoid humidity and do not press the embroidered surface strongly.
During work, be careful not to injure yourself on the needle tip, and return needles to a pincushion or similar holder for management. Threads and decorative materials containing metal may break easily, so do not bend them forcibly or pull them strongly. For apparel items, secure the thread ends on the back side firmly and check for skin irritation or snagging.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between Japanese embroidery and French embroidery?
French embroidery is a term often used as a general name for hand embroidery centered on techniques originating in Europe. Japanese embroidery often refers to techniques and expressions used for Japanese clothing and Japanese-style patterns, and is characterized by expressions that make use of the sheen of silk thread and gold and silver thread. In practice, there are also basic stitching methods that they have in common.
What kind of fabric is best for Japanese embroidery?
Suitable fabrics have a stable weave and are less likely to distort even when the needle is passed through them, relative to the fineness of the design and the thickness of the embroidery thread. Silk fabrics are well suited to traditional expressions, but cotton fabric that is easy to handle can also be used for practice. Thin fabrics and stretchy fabrics are stabilized as needed with interfacing or a frame.
Can Japanese embroidery pieces be washed at home?
This cannot be judged uniformly. Depending on the base fabric, embroidery thread, gold and silver thread, dye, and whether decorative elements using adhesive are present, washing with water may cause color fading, deformation, or a loss of sheen. For apparel items, follow the care label first, and for uncertain pieces, check a discreet area or consult a specialist.
