Metal Button

Definition and Overview

Metal buttons are a general term for buttons made primarily of metal or buttons with a metal appearance. Their surface finishes, such as glossy, matte, or antique, as well as designs such as stamps and emblems, greatly affect the look of a garment.

In addition to highly decorative buttons used on jacket fronts and cuffs, they are also used as practical fasteners for uniforms, coats, and pants. When selecting a product, check not only the appearance but also the material, structure, and usage environment.

Materials and Structure

Materials include brass, zinc alloy, iron, and aluminum, and the surface may be finished with plating or painting. Even with the same color name, the shade, weight feel, and corrosion resistance differ depending on the base metal and finish.

Stitch-on structures include two-hole and four-hole types with holes on the surface, shank buttons with a shank on the back through which thread is passed, and tunnel shanks with a sideways pass-through on the back. Button styles with holes are relatively stable and easy to sew, while shank buttons lift the button away from the textile and are easy to match with thick textiles.

• Two-hole / four-hole: a style attached by passing thread through the holes on the button surface.
• Shank button: a style in which thread is passed through the shank on the back, making it easier to show the decorative surface.
• Tunnel shank: a shank style with a horizontal hole on the back through which thread is passed, so the stitching does not show on the front side.

How Size Is Expressed

Button diameter is expressed in mm as well as lignes (L). Lignes are a size unit for buttons, and 1 ligne is 0.635 mm. For example, 20L is approx. 12.7 mm, but the actual outer diameter and thickness should be checked in the product specifications.

When selecting, not only the button diameter but also thickness, shank height, hole diameter, and weight are important. Since the required buttonhole length changes depending on the button thickness and shape, prototype confirmation with the actual item is carried out before mass production.

Main Uses and Selection

Metal buttons are used for tailored jackets, blazers, coats, cardigans, pants, denim, uniforms, and more. Especially on the front opening and cuffs, they serve as both functional components and design accents.

Depending on the application, consider the thickness and weight of the textile, frequency of opening and closing, washing method, and color matching with other trims. When attaching a heavy button to a thin textile, consider reinforcement with a reinforcement button or interfacing to prevent stretching and sagging.

Attachment and Handling Precautions

For shank buttons, creating a slight thread shank between the button and the textile and reinforcing the shank by wrapping the thread around the base makes it easier to fasten and unfasten, even at thick front edges. For hole buttons as well, match the number of stitching passes and thread type to the thickness of the textile and the button weight, and check resistance to pulling.

Resistance to washing, dry cleaning, and ironing varies depending on the type of metal, plating or painting, and whether adhesive is used. Since discoloration or surface scratches may occur due to moisture, sweat, detergent, or friction, handle according to the specified conditions and avoid direct exposure to excessive heat or steam.

For cast products, strong impact or excessive tightening may cause cracks, deformation, or peeling of the surface finish. Before sewing, check the appearance, shank looseness, and hole clogging, and for products that require needle detection, confirm in advance whether they are compatible.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should metal button sizes be specified in mm or lignes?

Use the unit adopted in the planning documents or specifications. Lignes are a widely used unit for buttons, and 1L is 0.635 mm. However, even with the same notation, the appearance and fit in the buttonhole vary depending on the thickness and edge shape, so it is more reliable to list both the outer diameter in mm and confirmation with the actual item.

Do metal buttons discolor with home washing or dry cleaning?

Whether discoloration occurs depends on the base metal, the type of plating or painting, and the conditions of contact with detergent, sweat, and moisture. Even with specifications that support washing or dry cleaning, friction and chemical effects over long-term use may still occur. Before adoption, confirm tests suited to the product's handling conditions.

What should be noted when attaching a shank metal button?

Because a shank button lifts the button away from the textile, if the thread shank is too short, it becomes difficult to fasten and unfasten. Provide appropriate slack according to the textile and front-edge thickness, and reinforce the thread shank by wrapping the base. For heavy buttons, reinforcing the textile side with a reinforcement button or interfacing is also effective.