Plating

Definition and Overview

Plating is a knit structure and knitting technique in which the ground thread and the plated thread are fed into the same stitch so that different threads appear on the front and back of the knit fabric. Different materials, colors, and yarn thicknesses can be used on the front and back.

Unlike double knit, which divides the entire fabric into two layers and bonds them together, plating basically forms one stitch with multiple threads. However, how the threads appear on the front and back depends on the yarn combination, machine settings, knitting density, and other conditions.

Features

It allows different roles to be assigned to the front and back, such as a glossy or vividly colored thread on the face side and a thread chosen for skin feel and absorbency on the back side. Using different colored threads also creates a change in tone between the front and back.

In designs that place cotton on the skin side and polyester on the face side, it is possible to aim for both comfort and quick drying. However, absorbency, warmth, and stretchability vary not only with fiber type but also with yarn structure and fabric design.

• It is easy to express different material textures and colors on the front and back.
• It makes it easy to choose fibers that touch the skin side.
• Depending on the yarn combination, it can create a mottled look or a sense of depth.
• Depending on knitting conditions, unintended yarn may show on the front or back.

Main Applications

It is used for knit products such as T-shirts, polo shirts, sweatshirts, cut-and-sew tops, underwear, and socks where both appearance and comfort against the skin are important. Plating can also be applied to fabrics such as jersey and moss stitch.

For spring and summer items, yarns are chosen with absorbency and reduced cling to the skin in mind; for fall and winter items, yarns are chosen with softness against the skin and warmth in mind. It is also used for sportswear, but suitability for the application is determined by checking fabric thickness, breathability, and dimensional stability.

Selection and Handling Notes

When selecting, check the composition, industry weight, thickness, stretch, rebound, and sheerness of both sides. It is important not to judge only by the face side, but to confirm through sample sewing the texture of the back side that touches the skin during wear, the thickness at seam allowances, and the stretch of seams.

The degree of shrinkage and twisting varies depending on the fibers used, knitting density, and dyeing and finishing processes. Before mass production, perform washing tests to confirm shrinkage rate and skew. When different fibers are used on the front and back, reflect washing conditions and detergent suitable for both sides in the care label.

For sewing, choose stitching specifications and thread that follow the stretch of the knit fabric to prevent seam stretching and seam failure. Excessive pulling during sewing affects the balance between the front and back and the finished dimensions, so adjust feed amount, thread tension, and needle type to suit the fabric.

Differences from Similar Terms

Commingling is a broader concept in which different types of yarn are used alternately in stitches or courses of a fabric. Plating, among these methods, focuses on feeding multiple threads into the same stitch and showing different threads on the front and back.

Inlay is a technique in which yarn is inserted into the fabric in addition to the yarn that forms the stitches. The plated thread in plating differs in that it is involved in the structure of the stitch. Also, fleece is a fabric that forms loops on the back side, and its structure differs from plating, which simply separates the yarn used on the front and back.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is plating a material name?

Plating is not a material name like cotton or polyester, but a method of knitting yarn into a fabric. Even with the same plating, the handfeel, appearance, and function vary greatly depending on the fibers used, yarn thickness, knit structure, and finishing process.

Does plated fabric shrink?

Whether it shrinks and how much it shrinks are not uniform. Especially when different fibers are used on the front and back, differences in shrinkage characteristics by fiber may affect dimensions and surface appearance. Check the care label for each fabric and carry out washing and sewing tests before mass production.

What is the difference between plating and double knit?

Plating is a technique that knits multiple yarns into one stitch to make different yarns appear more easily on the front and back. Double knit is a fabric made by bonding two layers of knit fabric, front and back. Thickness, structure, and stretch behavior differ depending on each design.