Selvedge Denim
Selvedge denim is denim fabric woven on old-style looms and has self-finished edges that prevent fraying on both sides.
Definition and Overview
Selvedge denim is denim with a "self-edge" woven into both sides of the fabric. The selvage refers to the fray-resistant edge formed by folding back the warp yarns. Rather than overlocking the cut edges like ordinary denim, this selvage is also used as a design feature on side seams and similar areas.
Denim is usually a twill-woven fabric made with dyed warp yarns and white weft yarns. Selvedge is not a term that indicates the weave structure, material, or color name of denim; it is mainly a term that refers to the construction of the fabric edge and the weaving method associated with it.
Features
The selvage may include colored yarns, and those with a red line are called red selvedge. However, the selvage color is not limited to red, and red selvedge is not an exact synonym for all selvedge denim. The presence and combination of colored yarns vary by fabric.
On fabrics made with old-style looms, the weave width is relatively narrow, and weaving irregularities, yarn slubs, and an uneven surface appearance may be part of the character. However, the hand feel, thickness, stiffness, and fading behavior vary greatly depending on the yarn type, density, dyeing, and finishing process.
In indigo-dyed products, the surface dye may wear off with use and washing, allowing changes in shade to be enjoyed. This is not a property determined solely by being selvedge; it also depends on the dyeing method, processing conditions, and wearing conditions.
Main Applications
It is used mainly for jeans, but also for denim jackets, coveralls, work pants, skirts, and more. Styles that show the selvage at the side seam or coin pocket are an effective way to communicate that the material is selvedge denim as a design feature.
The suitable item changes depending on the industry weight and finishing. Thicker, firmer fabrics are used for pants and outerwear, while relatively lighter fabrics are also used for shirts and spring/summer items. During planning, confirm the thickness, stiffness, and load on moving parts relative to the intended use.
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting, check not only whether there is a selvage, but also the material blend, industry weight, weave density, stretch, finish, and fabric width. Selvedge denim may affect fabric consumption more than standard wide-width denim, so it is important to consider pattern layout and required quantity in advance.
With non-sanforized fabrics or fabrics that retain shrinkage, dimensions may change during washing or wetting. Before mass production, check shrinkage rate, twisting, and color transfer under the planned washing and drying conditions, and if necessary, perform straightening, wetting, and pattern adjustments.
During sewing, adjust the needle, thread, and feeding conditions to the fabric so that needle breakage and skipped stitches do not occur in areas where the fabric thickness builds up, such as the waistband, side seams, and hems. For areas where the selvage is shown on the outside, align the selvage position and left-right appearance during cutting, and also confirm the seam allowance design.
- For dark-colored products, take care to prevent color transfer from friction, sweat, and moisture.
- Handle according to the washing instructions for each product, such as washing separately.
- If a wash process is applied, also check in advance for color transfer to trims and differences in shrinkage.
Differences from Similar Terms
Denim is a general term for fabrics represented by twill weave, while selvedge denim refers to denim with a selvage. Therefore, there is also denim that is not selvedge. Also, even selvedge denim does not always have a red selvage.
Red selvedge is a common term referring to a selvage specification with red colored yarn. It may also refer to the selvage itself, or be used as a customary name for selvedge denim. In commercial transactions, the selvage color, width, and display method should be clearly specified in the specification sheet.
Knitted denim is a knit fabric with a denim-like appearance, and its structure differs from that of selvedge denim, which is a woven fabric. Because its stretch and edge properties also differ, the pattern and sewing specifications should be reviewed when substituting it as a denim-look material.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are selvedge denim and red selvedge denim the same?
Selvedge denim with a selvage containing red colored yarn is called red selvedge denim. However, because selvages can also be other colors or plain, not all selvedge denim is red selvedge. When ordering, confirm the selvage color combination and how it will be shown.
Does selvedge denim shrink when washed?
The amount of shrinkage depends on whether it is non-shrink treated, the finishing process, the material blend, and the washing and drying conditions. Fabrics close to non-sanforized material may change dimension, so it is important to perform a test wash before production and reflect the shrinkage rate in the pattern and specifications.
Where is the selvage of selvedge denim used?
It is used on the facing of pant side seams, hem folds, the inside of jacket plackets, and pocket openings. Even when not shown, it can be used in edge finishing, but the cutting layout must be designed with the selvage width and fabric width in mind.
