Twill Weave

Definition and Overview

Twill is a woven structure in which warp or weft yarns cross over multiple yarns at a time. As the crossing points shift sequentially to one side, diagonal lines called twill ribs appear on the fabric surface. It is one of the three basic woven structures, along with plain weave and satin weave.

The angle and clarity of the twill ribs vary depending on yarn thickness, warp and weft density, weave structure, and finishing. Fabric made with a twill weave is generally called twill, but the usage range of the term can vary.

Characteristics

Because it has fewer interlacings than plain weave, it is a structure that generally tends to feel softer and more supple. Depending on thickness and yarn use, it can balance moderate drape and durability, so it is used widely from apparel to materials.

The diagonal ribs create the fabric’s appearance, and shadows become visible depending on how the light hits it. On the other hand, depending on the weave structure and finishing, rubbing may create a faded-looking mark, and diagonal distortion may become noticeable after washing.

• Those with more warp yarns on the surface are called warp twill.
• Those with more weft yarns on the surface are called weft twill.
• The direction of twill ribs can slope up to the right or up to the left, which may affect cutting and how the left and right sides look.

Main Applications

Twill is used for shirts, pants, skirts, jackets, coats, and more. If it is woven tightly with fine yarn, it becomes a relatively smooth apparel fabric; if thicker yarns or heavy yarns are used, it becomes a durable fabric with a casual appearance.

Typical twill fabrics include twill, denim, chino cloth, and gabardine. However, because these also differ in material, density, yarn dyeing, finishing, and more, performance and appearance are not determined by the twill structure alone.

Selection and Handling Notes

When selecting, check the direction and appearance of the twill ribs, fabric weight, density, blend ratio, and finishing. It is reassuring to evaluate the required firmness, drape, and abrasion resistance for the intended use with samples, and to also check for rubbing marks and color transfer in colored fabrics.

During cutting, aligning the direction of the pieces based on the twill ribs makes it easier to maintain a neat appearance. In particular, for dark colors and brushed items, mixed nap direction and twill direction can make the fabric look like it has color differences. Before sewing, confirm shrinkage from washing or steaming and the degree of diagonal distortion in advance.

Differences from Similar Terms

Plain weave is a structure in which warp and weft yarns interlace one by one in alternating order, creating a grid-like appearance. Twill differs in that the interlacing points are shifted to form diagonal twill ribs. In general, with a similar level of yarn use, plain weave tends to hold its shape more easily.

Satin weave is a structure that floats yarns longer to make the surface appear smooth. Twill more readily shows a diagonal texture than satin weave, and because the floating yarns are relatively short, it may be easier to handle in practical apparel. Twill is a term often used to refer to twill weave or twill fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions