Strike-through

Definition and Overview

Strike-through is a phenomenon in which the thermoplastic adhesive applied to fusible interlining passes through the fabric structure and gaps of the face fabric under the heat, pressure, and time of pressing, and appears on the surface. In English, it is called strike-through.

It causes adhesive-related gloss, spots, or a wet-looking appearance on the face fabric, and is especially noticeable on light-colored, thin, or sheer fabrics. Unlike a stain from dirt, it is a surface defect caused by the bonding process.

Areas of Use and the Role of Interlining

Strike-through is not the name of a part, but a quality issue that can occur where interlining has been bonded. It is checked in areas where fusible interlining is used to shape the garment or prevent stretching, such as collars, front plackets, cuffs, facings, collar stands, pocket openings, and waistbands.

Interlining gives the face fabric body and firmness and helps stabilize the shape during sewing and wear. On the other hand, if an interlining with too much adhesive is selected for the thinness or structure of the face fabric, the risk of strike-through increases.

Tendency by Material and Type

If the face fabric is thin, low in density, has gaps in its structure, or has a smooth surface that easily reflects light, the adhesive will be more visible. With lawn, voile, chiffon, and organza, in particular, advance testing is important.

Depending on whether the base fabric of the interlining is nonwoven, woven, or knitted, its conformity and effect on appearance also differ. In addition, the type of adhesive, dot size and density, and application amount are all related to the occurrence of strike-through.

• For thin, light-colored, or sheer face fabrics, check the appearance from the surface side.
• For stretch face fabrics, consider a knit interlining with good conformity.
• Check not only firmness, but also the combination of adhesive specification and face fabric structure.

How to Choose and Pre-Testing

Choose interlining according to the face fabric thickness, density, stretch, surface texture, and the required body or firmness. A firm interlining or one with a high adhesive amount is not always bad, but if its specification is excessive for a thin fabric, it can lead to appearance defects and a loss of hand feel.

Before mass production, conduct trial bonding using the actual face fabric, interlining, and press machine. Check the appearance of both the front and back, the hand after bonding, and whether any peeling occurs. For products intended for washing or dry cleaning, also evaluate changes after treatment.

Bonding and Sewing Precautions

If pressing temperature, pressure, or time is excessive, the adhesive is more likely to flow and cause strike-through. Use the specified conditions for the interlining as a base, then adjust them to suit the face fabric, and also manage dirt on the pressing surface and the condition of the pressing cloth.

When re-pressing or ironing after bonding, localized strong heat or pressure can also change the appearance. It is important to verify this through prototypes that include the sewing process, and to record the conditions in the specification sheet and share them between factories.

Strike-through is different from peeling, which occurs when bonding strength is insufficient. It also differs in cause and appearance from fading, in which the outline or step of the interlining shows through the face fabric, and from bubbling, in which lifting occurs on the bonded surface.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can strike-through be prevented by weakening the bonding conditions?

Lowering the temperature, pressure, and time can sometimes reduce excessive adhesive flow. However, lowering the conditions too much may result in insufficient peel strength. Including a change of interlining, confirm both appearance and adhesion through trial bonding with the actual face fabric and equipment.

What kind of interlining should be chosen for face fabrics that are prone to strike-through?

For thin, light-colored, or sheer face fabrics, choose an interlining with an adhesive specification that is less likely to affect the surface and that matches the thickness and hand of the face fabric. It is necessary to evaluate not just the type of base fabric, but the combination including the adhesive dots or application amount and the pressing conditions.