Corduroy

Definition and Overview

Corduroy is a pile woven fabric characterized by ribs running in the warp direction. The woven pile is cut open and the nap is arranged to form ribs. In Japan, it is also called Corduroy and is used as a representative fabric for autumn and winter clothing.

Rib density is generally expressed in "wales," which indicates the number of ribs within a given length. Fewer wales result in wide ribs, while more wales result in fine ribs; wider ribs tend to have a clearer look and a more casual impression.

Features

The surface nap and ribbing create shading, giving it a soft, warm appearance. Because the color depth and sheen appear differently depending on the direction of the nap, it is important to align the nap direction of all components when cutting.

In addition to those made mainly from cotton, there are versions blended with polyester and others with added stretch. Depending on the material composition, rib width, industry weight, and finish, it ranges from thin and supple to thick and firm.

• Wide-rib corduroy tends to create a more three-dimensional look and is suited to outerwear and pants.
• Fine-rib corduroy has a relatively delicate appearance and is also used for shirts and dresses.
• The pile portion is prone to friction, and the nap may become disturbed through wear and washing.

Main Applications

It is used for pants, jackets, blousons, skirts, dresses, and more. It is a fabric often chosen for casual wear, workwear-inspired items, and children's clothing because it makes the rib structure stand out.

Thicker versions are used for autumn and winter outerwear and bottoms, while fine-rib and thinner versions are used for shirts, blouses, and light clothing. In addition to apparel, it is also used for miscellaneous goods and interior applications such as bags and cushion covers, taking advantage of its surface texture.

Selection and Handling Precautions

When planning, check not only the rib width but also the material composition, industry weight, stretch, nap, and changes after washing. Assess the necessary performance according to the item, such as durability and ease of movement for bottoms, or lightness and suppleness for shirts.

During cutting, place all components in the same nap direction. If directions are mixed, the finished product may appear different in color. Since the cut edges may shift because of the pile, attention is also needed for pattern matching and fixing before sewing.

Wash according to the product's care label. Dark-colored items may transfer color due to friction or washing, so special care such as washing separately is necessary. To reduce flattening or disturbance of the nap, wash inside out and lightly smooth it along the nap direction after drying.

Differences from Similar Terms

Velvet is also a woven fabric with cut pile, but generally its entire surface is covered with uniform nap and it has no ribs. Corduroy has continuous ribs, so it has a more casual and three-dimensional look.

Velour often refers mainly to knitted pile fabric, and its structure differs from corduroy, which is woven. In addition, fuzzy fabric is a broader term that includes processing to raise nap on the surface, and its manufacturing method differs from corduroy, which forms ribs by cutting the pile.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you choose between wide-rib and fine-rib corduroy?

Wide-rib corduroy has a stronger three-dimensional rib effect and is suited to pants, jackets, and outerwear where thickness and a casual feel are desired. Fine-rib corduroy looks neater and is generally easier to use for shirts and dresses. Ultimately, also check the industry weight, material composition, and drape.

Does corduroy need to be cut in the same direction?

Yes. The direction of the nap changes how light is reflected, which affects how the color appears. Place all components, including the body, sleeves, collar, and pockets, in the same direction, and estimate fabric consumption on the assumption of one-way cutting.

Does corduroy shrink when washed?

The degree of shrinkage varies depending on the fiber type, density, and finishing process. Fabrics with a high cotton content may change in particular, so before mass production, check the shrinkage rate and nap changes with a washing test. After the product is made, always handle it according to the care label.