Raschel Knitting
Raschel knitting is a type of warp knitting in which a large number of warp threads are fed to the needles and knitted in the warp direction, producing fabrics with a wide range of looks such as mesh, lace, and heavy materials.
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Definition and Overview
Raschel knitting is a representative type of warp knitting structure that uses threads arranged in the warp direction. Because stitches are formed by moving the threads left and right, it is easy to create open mesh, patterns, and a sense of three-dimensionality, and it is characterized by a wide range of fabric design possibilities.
“Raschel” does not refer to a material name, but to the knitting method and the knitted fabric made by it. Even with Raschel knitting, the properties vary greatly from thin to thick fabrics depending on the fibers used, thread thickness, knitting structure, and finishing.
Features and Appearance
In general, Raschel fabrics are less likely to lose their shape than circular knit jersey and tend to have relatively little stretch. However, some are made elastic by the structure or by interknitting polyurethane, so it is important to check stretch in each direction.
This is a fabric with a wide range of appearances, including coarse mesh, delicate lace, fuzzy pile-like textures, and thick three-dimensional structures. Varieties with large mesh openings are easy to make breathable, but sheerness and snagging can become issues.
Main Applications
Raschel knitting is used for lingerie, innerwear, blouses, and decorative parts of dresses that make use of lace and net structures. Mesh structures are also used for sportswear, hats, bags, and similar items, while thick or pile-like structures are also used for outerwear, bedding, and interior applications.
Thin, sheer types are suited to layering and panel changes in spring and summer, while bulky types are suited to outer fabrics and accessory applications in autumn and winter. When deciding on an application, check not only the appearance but also the required strength, sheerness, hand feel, and elasticity.
How to Choose and Handling Notes
When reviewing a fabric swatch, check the front and back, stretch in the lengthwise, crosswise, and diagonal directions, mesh size, sheerness, and how easily the edges fray. Patterned Raschel fabrics can look different depending on the cutting direction and pattern placement, so consider fabric yield and pattern matching in advance.
Shrinkage and dimensional changes after washing depend on the fiber type and finishing. Before mass production, carry out washing tests and sewing tests, and handle the fabric according to the care label. For mesh and lace, using a laundry net and avoiding friction with other garments may be effective.
In sewing, pulling the knit fabric too hard may cause seam waviness or stitch distortion. Choose needles, thread, and feed conditions suited to the fabric, and if necessary use stretch tape or lightweight interfacing together to stabilize seam allowances and openings.
Differences from Similar Terms
Warp knitting is the general term for knitting methods that use threads arranged in the warp direction, and Raschel knitting is one type of it. Tricot is also warp knitting, but while it generally makes fine, smooth surfaces more easily, Raschel knitting is better suited to creating relatively coarse mesh, complex patterns, and thick structures.
Raschel lace is the name for lace made with Raschel knitting. Mesh, on the other hand, is a general term for a net-like appearance or structure, and may also be made by methods other than Raschel knitting.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does Raschel knitting stretch?
Raschel knitting is generally more stable in shape than circular knitting and tends to have relatively little stretch. However, elasticity varies greatly depending on the knitting structure, thread selection, and whether polyurethane is used. Please check the stretch and recovery in the lengthwise, crosswise, and diagonal directions on the actual fabric.
What is the difference between Raschel knitting and tricot?
Both are warp knits, but Raschel knitting is a method that more easily creates varied structures such as mesh, lace, and three-dimensional patterns, and can also handle thicker threads more easily. Tricot generally has finer stitches and is used for knitted fabrics with smooth, even surfaces.
