Glossing
Glossing is a phenomenon in which the adhesive resin in fusible interlining shows through the surface of a lightweight or dark-colored outer fabric, appearing as a glossy or speckled defect.
Contents5 sections
Definition and Overview
Glossing is an appearance defect in which the adhesive resin on fusible interlining shows through from the face side of the outer fabric with a glossy appearance. It is especially noticeable on dark colors, lightweight fabrics, and smooth outer fabrics that easily reflect light, and the resin particles or dots can spoil the design.
Whereas staining appears as a color change caused by the penetration of resin components, glossing mainly refers to a glossy look caused by reflection or show-through of the resin. However, both can occur at the same time in actual products.
Areas Where It Is Likely to Occur and Its Role
Fusible interlining is used in facings, collars, front plackets, cuffs, waist areas, and similar parts, and serves to shape the garment, suppress stretching, and improve stability during sewing. Glossing becomes a problem when the areas where these interlinings are applied can be seen from the face side.
Care is needed with dark-colored garments such as black formal wear, lightweight blouse fabrics, and glossy outer fabrics, because even small appearance differences stand out easily. Even in areas that require interlining, selection should prioritize compatibility with the outer fabric.
Materials and Types of Resin
Fusible interlining is an accessory material in which resin that bonds with heat is applied in dotted form to a base material such as nonwoven fabric, woven fabric, or knit. The appearance of glossing varies not only with the thickness and color of the base material, but also with the color of the resin, particle size, dot density, and resin amount.
For applications where minimizing appearance impact is important, options include those using fine resin particles, finer dots, or colored resin that blends easily with the outer fabric. It is important not to judge only by the resin specifications, but to check the interlining in the state actually bonded to the outer fabric.
- For lightweight outer fabrics or those with sheerness, consider interlining that does not easily show resin shapes on the surface.
- For dark outer fabrics, confirm whether the white-type resin specification is less visible.
- Stiff interlining may reduce the supple feel of the outer fabric and make appearance differences more noticeable.
How to Choose It and Points to Note in Bonding and Sewing
Select interlining based on the outer fabric's thickness, density, color, luster, stretch, and the required firmness. If the interlining is too heavy or too stiff, it can change the feel of the outer fabric and make fading and bubbling more likely in addition to glossing. Consider interlining with a degree of conformity similar to that of the outer fabric.
When bonding, follow the bonding conditions specified for each interlining and control temperature, time, and pressure. Excessive heat or pressure may intensify the effect of the resin on the outer fabric, while insufficient conditions can reduce peel strength. Before mass production, conduct tests using the actual outer fabric, interlining, and press machine.
Because the appearance may also change after sewing or after ironing, check not only immediately after bonding, but also through evaluation assuming sewing, finishing, and washing or cleaning. Change the lighting angle and confirm whether there is any gloss or mottling on the face side of the outer fabric.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between glossing and staining?
Glossing is a phenomenon in which adhesive resin reflects light or shows through the outer fabric, creating a glossy or dotted appearance. Staining refers to changes such as the outer fabric appearing darker in color due to the effect of the resin. Since both can occur at the same time, check the face side of the outer fabric comprehensively.
Can glossing be prevented just by changing the bonding conditions?
In some cases it can be reduced by adjusting bonding temperature, time, and pressure, but compatibility between the interlining's resin specifications and the outer fabric may be the main cause. If it cannot be solved by conditions alone, choose interlining with different resin particles, dot specifications, color, or base material, and carry out comparative tests in the actual process.
When should glossing be checked?
Check it immediately after applying the interlining, and again after sewing and final pressing. For products intended to be washed or cleaned, also check the appearance after tests assuming those processes. On dark-colored or glossy materials, the appearance can change depending on the viewing angle and lighting, so it is important to evaluate under multiple conditions.
