Bishu
Bishu is a textile production area spanning western Aichi Prefecture and the Seino region of Gifu Prefecture, where processes such as wool textile manufacturing, thread making, weaving and knitting, and dyeing and finishing are concentrated.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Bishu is a textile production area formed in a region that mainly includes Ichinomiya City and the Owari area in Aichi Prefecture, and Hashima City and other areas in Gifu Prefecture. It is not the name of a specific material, fabric structure, or brand, but a general term for a production area where multiple businesses and processes are concentrated.
It is widely known for wool fabrics made from sheep wool, but in practice it also handles fibers other than wool and fabrics made by combining them. For that reason, the label "Bishu" alone does not tell you the material blend or fabric performance.
Background of the Production Area and Key Technologies
In Bishu, businesses involved in thread planning, twisting, dyeing, weaving, knitting, finishing, and inspection are concentrated in the region. Its strength lies in combining specialized expertise at each process, making it easy to handle everything from fabric planning to final finishing.
Yarn dyed, in particular, is a method in which yarns are dyed separately before weaving. It is used for woven checks, heather effects, and deep color expression. By combining materials, thread, structures, and processing, a wide range of textures can be created.
- Woven fabrics made mainly from wool and animal hair fibers, including combed and spun wool types
- Checks, stripes, and heather effects created through yarn dyeing
- Planning of knitted fabrics and blended or union fabrics in addition to woven fabrics
- Finishing processes such as fulling and raising that adjust the texture
Representative Fabrics and Applications
Fabrics handled in Bishu include serge and gabardine for suits, as well as tweed, flannel, and melton for jackets and coats. Even when the fabric name is the same, thickness and appearance differ depending on yarn thickness, density, fabric weight, and processing.
Applications are mainly tailored jackets, slacks, coats, skirts, and dresses. Lightweight combed wool fabrics are also used for suits, and fabrics with a raised or fulling finish may be used for autumn and winter outerwear.
Points to Check When Purchasing
Labels such as "Bishu product" or "Bishu fabric" may indicate a connection to the production area, but that does not necessarily mean that every stage, including the origin of the raw materials, spinning location, weaving or knitting location, and dyeing and finishing location, was in Bishu. It is important to confirm with the supplier which process is being identified as the production area.
When selecting fabric, check the blend ratio, structure, fabric weight, fabric width, finishing process, and suitability for washing or dry cleaning. For yarn dyed patterns, also confirm the size of the pattern and repeat at the pattern-making stage, taking into account the extra yardage needed for pattern matching.
For ongoing production, confirm in advance the color variation and texture differences between rolls, inventory quantity, minimum lot for additional production, and lead time. Because custom colors and custom patterns may require processes before mass production, make sure the approval conditions using sample rolls and lab dips are also clear.
- The process indicated by the production area label, and the blend ratio and material information
- Whether the fabric is in stock or made to order, and the minimum lot for reorders
- Lead time required for mass production and additional production
- Quality conditions such as lot variation, shrinkage, colorfastness, and pilling
- Yardage requirements including pattern repeat, pattern direction, and pattern matching
Differences from Similar Terms
Bishu is a production area name, and should be distinguished from material and fabric names such as wool, tweed, flannel, and melton. For example, tweed produced in Bishu is possible, but that does not mean all tweed comes from Bishu.
Banshu weave, Enshu, and Okayama denim are also names that refer to fabric production areas. However, the processes concentrated in each region and the materials and product categories they specialize in differ. Do not decide specifications based only on the production area name; check the specifications and quality of each individual fabric.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are all Bishu fabrics 100% wool?
No. Bishu is the name of a production area, not a material name, so it is not limited to 100% wool. There are also materials that combine wool with polyester, nylon, cashmere, and other fibers, as well as fabrics based mainly on fibers other than wool. Always check the blend ratio and specifications for each product number.
What should be checked for fabrics labeled as "Bishu product"?
First, confirm which process was carried out in Bishu, such as weaving or knitting, dyeing and finishing, or yarn making. In addition, it is reassuring to organize the blend ratio, fabric weight, fabric width, whether it is stock or made to order, minimum lot, lead time for additional production, and quality conditions such as color variation and shrinkage in the specification sheet.
