Gold Brocade
Gold brocade is a patterned textile made by weaving in gold thread, gold-and-silver thread, and similar materials to create a vivid design. It is a textile used for costumes, bags, and decorative applications.
Definition and Overview
Gold brocade is a woven fabric with patterns woven in by adding gold thread, gold-and-silver thread, or metallic decorative thread to the ground weave. It is generally characterized by a lustrous, ornate appearance, and in the kimono field it is treated as a fabric associated with formality.
Because the patterns are created by weaving, its appearance and sense of dimension differ from fabric with printed designs on the surface. The materials, weave structure, and use of metallic thread vary by fabric, and there is a wide range in thickness and firmness.
Features and Texture
Because the metallic thread reflects light, the pattern stands out depending on the angle and lighting, creating a heavy, highly decorative impression. Ground threads may be silk, rayon, polyester, and other materials, and flexibility, body, and drape vary depending on the raw material and density.
The floating threads that make up the pattern may be susceptible to damage from friction or snagging. In addition, depending on the weave structure and thread use, cut edges may fray easily, and the fabric may have more body than ordinary lightweight fabrics.
Main Applications
In kimono, it is used for obi fabric, decorative parts of uchikake and stage costumes, and festival costumes. In Western clothing, it is used in parts of dresses, jackets, skirts, bags, and shoes, and is suitable for designs that aim to add a glamorous touch.
Beyond apparel, it is also used for decorative applications such as pouches, lining for boxes, and cushion covers. Since its luster and thickness can be effectively used, it is a fabric often used more for formal wear, ceremonial garments, and stage costumes than for everyday clothing.
- The size of the pattern affects the product area and whether pattern matching is possible.
- Rather than full coverage, it is also used in parts such as collars, facings, and seam inserts.
How to Choose and Handling Notes
When selecting it, check not only the composition but also the fabric width, industry weight, thickness, pattern direction, repeat, and the condition of the threads on the reverse side. For costumes and bags, it is important to confirm the strength required for the application and ease of handling during sewing using actual samples.
How much it shrinks, changes in luster, and whether color runs with washing differ depending on the material and processing. Some cannot be washed with water, so follow the care label. Check compatibility with interfacing, pressing conditions, and cleaning methods in advance, and perform trial sewing if necessary.
When cutting, align the pattern direction and calculate yardage while allowing for the amount needed for pattern matching. During sewing, be careful of needle holes, presser foot marks, and snagging of floating threads, and consider seam allowance thickness in areas where the stitching will be noticeable.
Differences from Similar Terms
Brocade is an English term generally referring to decorative woven fabrics with patterns woven in. Gold brocade is often used to refer to those that have a metallic expression using gold thread, gold-and-silver thread, and similar materials, and the scope of the two terms may not match depending on distribution and field.
Jacquard is a broad term for a weaving method used to weave complex patterns, or for the resulting fabric. Some gold brocade is made by Jacquard weaving, but not all Jacquard fabrics are gold brocade. Patterned woven fabric is a term for woven fabrics in general that have patterns woven into them.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can gold brocade be washed at home?
Whether it can be washed at home depends on the type of ground thread and metallic thread, dyeing, and processing. Water and friction may change the luster, texture, and dimensions, so be sure to check the care label on the fabric or product. It is reassuring to conduct a washing test before mass production.
What is the difference between gold brocade and Jacquard?
Jacquard is a broad term related to weave structures or fabrics that create patterns, and it includes items that do not use metallic thread. Gold brocade often refers to patterned woven fabric that expresses ornate patterns using gold thread, gold-and-silver thread, and similar materials, and it may be treated as part of Jacquard fabrics.
What should be noted when sewing gold brocade?
It is important not to snag the floating threads and not to make the needle holes or presser foot marks noticeable in the stitching. Check the pattern direction and pattern matching, and allow sufficient yardage before cutting. For thick fabrics, make a test sample of areas where seam allowances overlap, and adjust the interfacing, needle, and thread.
